This week, we’re joined by Dr. Henrik S. Wilberg, recently of the NYT, author of the Substack Why We Remain in the Provinces, polyglot, surplus obsessive, and dad. We get his geographic CV and his summer travels, then go deep on the death of cool, the European/American style divide, and why vintage might be exhausted.

Along the way: how American clothing first landed in Europe, countries rediscovering their own vintage, Ralph usurping the WASP ideal and selling American cool back to itself, the soft power of cool in the post-GWOT era, designers destroyed by capitalism, and the fantasy that we’re all still living in the same world. Henrik also previews his idea of “filial style,” which he describes as “piety rather than self-expression,” and explains why we remain in the provinces.

Also: Barbra Streisand, fax machines, Brokeback Mountain, and a lot of things we forgot.

Dead stars. Nothing is the same. Listen now, link in bio.



The Soft Power of Cool with Dr. Henrik Wilberg

A sporting episode? What has become of your loyal co-hosts? Well, Matty is, as always, conversant, while Conor can at least talk about Baltimore. And so we do. We talk Baltimore, in a big way: The Baltimore Colts, their leaving town under the cover of darkness, Cal Ripken Jr, uniforms, jerseys, chain stitching, Under Armour (barf), skateboarding in the 90s, “functional art,” “No Ball Playing,” Clothing as cosplay, Nerds vs. Dorks, BALTIMORE DOESNT LIKE YOU EITHER, being ripped off, pigs, regional accents, Baltimore Pride, and a bushel more! As ever, you know where the link is.

Baltimore, Born & Raised with Arvay Adams

We did not trick these titans into coming on! They volunteered for another round in the um luke warm seat. Ladies and Gents, theys and thems, we welcome back to the show the sharp as a tack editorial cartoonist, Kevin Kallaugher, of The Economist, and recently ousted from The Baltimore Sun and attorney, Barry Lynn, formerly Director of Americans United for Separation of Church and State, and author of Piety & Politics: The Right-Wing Assault on Religious Freedom and (titled by me) Paid to Piss People Off: Peace, Porn, and Prayer.

And, boy, do we get into it: Kal's 50th anniversary at The Economist, scandals, discovering Barry has a book of Kal's, how to engage with the checked out, mid-terms, the military, Sigh...The Democrats, Freedom of Expression Under Siege, fighting government overreach, the lame stream media, organizing on substack, Jerry Fucking Falwell, satire, humor, cartoonists and comedians and their similarities, Lewis Black, money, defining charisma, USA Bicentennial, BIG RIP to  "Flimsy Lindsay" Graham, Mamdani, a box of flaming excrement, and, actually, maybe a few more boxes of burning shit.

A Cartoonist and a Lawyer Walk Into a Bar...with Kevin Kallaugher and Barry Lynn

This week on, a special late night episode, the tenacious tatooer, Peter Toatley. In Conor’s sleepiest episode ever, we still manage to cover: lines that didn’t age well; as ever, the climate; cooking; shout out the OG @anaffordablewardrobe; Crown Chicken; college algebra; teaching yourself math; dropping out of a liberal arts school; “the disposable economy;” puppetry; WWII USN overalls; Doing crossfit so you can eat hot dogs; Mexican hot dogs, and an Ambien more.

Keeping It Interesting with Peter Toatley

A very old friend today: Billy has known me since we were in 1st grade, so 30 years. We talk about "diving in," neurodivergence, metal, Apple's Tyranny, managing a tour and a record label, touring, veganism, yoga, friendship, and way more!

Truth Is A Sword with William Brooke Jarboe III

Typically, our sources need no protection, but, sometimes, they do. So, we welcome the individual or organization known only as R. L. Grails to the program. We have been in contact with this or these individuals for some duration now, but we have finally decided that it is time to bring his knowledge into the light. We talk, of course about Ralph Lauren, the man, the brand, the legend, etc, but we also peer deeply into the undeniable influence of hip-hop culture, Tommy Hilfiger vs Ralph Lauren, Nirvana as an entry to culture, growing up in the 90s, sharing knowledge, Maximalism, or Not Being A Minimalist, “getting the most out of ordinary things,” and more!

The Rise of Pants with R.L. Grails

This week, we welcomed back long-time friend of the show, Militaria legend, astute journalist, collector, historian, and author of Combat Threads, Charles McFarlane. The first of a two-part series, we explore the beginnings of his writing career, his recent outdoors adventures, what pieces of vintage military gear still hold their own, the intersection of modern military clothing and outdoor gear, the WW2 distribution system, the “Tactical Military Industrial Complex”, and a slew of other topics.

Getting Niche and Nerdy with Charles McFarlane

This week, the super kind, super smart Eric Langois (pronounced LANG-WAH) in the studio! We talked about the American South via Asheville, NC, novelty ties, dressing for church, inspiration, chambray, The Andover Shop, writing, Hercule Poiroit, trains, the rules of menswear, vanity and hubris, and hogshead more!

Dressing Is A Visual Pastime with Eric Langois

I’M RICK JAMES, NICK! 

This week, we had the distinct pleasure of hosting New York’s Own, Nick James, but not that New York–until recently, anyway. Nick has a “chaotic” CV, to hear him tell it, so we get into it: joining the Air Force when he was 17,  Meteorology, Lab Science, Moving to The Big Apple, racial ambiguity, WESTSIDE GUNN, Buffalo, Birding, Military LARPers, lacrosse, thrifting, skate culture, his intro to the menswear community, and, as always, way more!

Bird Blindness with Nick James

This week we were thrilled to have a world-travelin’, freewheelin’, Ivy wearin’ Welshman in the studio (a first for us!), Jack Whitaker. We had a great time chatting about how the contrast of growing up in the Middle East and a small village in Wales, getting into clothing through skater style, shoes as a first fashion love, tough love from friends, the differences between American and English tailoring, clothing hills we die on, Oasis, financial industry dress stereotypes, and tons of other tangents!

Mr. Potato Head Really Let Himself Go! with Jack Whitaker

Conor Fowler (@conorfowler) · Zencastr

Conor Fowler (@conorfowler)

A clown and a curmudgeon contemplate clothes with their comrades. 

What are you wearing to the end of the world?

APOCALYPSE DUDS: Clothing, Community & Culture

Conor Fowler's Show

A clown and a curmudgeon contemplate clothes with their comrades.  

What are you wearing to the end of the world?