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Episode 49: Stephan Browne-Blackman
61 Plays7 months ago
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Transcript
Introduction to the Podcast
00:00:14
Speaker
Welcome to Craft, Design, Edit, Sleep, Repeat. I'm your host, Lisa Conway. Welcome to my world where we try to understand the business of knit and crochet design.
00:00:37
Speaker
Well,
Guest Introduction
00:00:38
Speaker
welcome back, everybody. I know last time I said that I would only be doing interviews when I found someone, and I found someone excellent. So I'm really excited to introduce you to Stefan Brown Blackmon. I'm thrilled to have you here, Stefan. Thank you for joining me. Thank you for having me. I'm super excited to be here today.
00:01:05
Speaker
Let's
Stefan's Crochet Journey Begins
00:01:06
Speaker
start out by telling people what you do. I am Stefan of Steph Made That, which is basically
00:01:18
Speaker
It has evolved into more of just a brand, but it started off as my way of designing crochet patterns. I haven't been designing for super long, but I have been really passionate about it. And I feel like I've really been pushing out a lot of work.
00:01:40
Speaker
and really trying to establish myself in the space underneath this brand. So we'll see what it evolves into. But as of right now, that's still where I am, designing knit and crochet things. But I've been having a blast, so expect to see a lot more for me. I'm totally looking forward to it. Absolutely totally looking forward to it. Tell us how you got into knitting and crochet. Where did that start?
00:02:09
Speaker
Well, I myself started crocheting during the pandemic, like a lot of people. But I actually grew up like my grandma used to crochet, my mom's mom. So I would see her, you know, with a hook and some yarn every once in a while. I was too young then to know exactly what it was. But I do have, you know, the memories of seeing that and then my mom was a knitter. So
00:02:39
Speaker
I don't know if she still does. I haven't seen her knitting in a while, but I had one day discovered her box of knitting needles and there was some yarn in the house at a point over COVID when I was very bored, to say the least. I had a lot of time on my hands and I was looking for a new hobby, something that didn't require me to go outside.
00:03:02
Speaker
And I found her little box of knitting needles. There's a few crochet hooks and the weaving needles and things like that in there. And I was like, you know what? Why not? Let's try it out. And I started with knitting, did not really go that well.
Influences and Inspirations
00:03:18
Speaker
Um, but there was some crochet hooks in there and I tried out crocheting and that stuck. And after a few months, I circled back to knitting and finally was able to get the hang of it. And now I also really enjoy Tunisian crochet. So like all of, all of them kind of like blend together for me, but it really all started over COVID because I saw my family doing it before me. And I figured if they can do it, I must have the talent, right?
00:03:48
Speaker
Well, you would hope anyway. It really hasn't been that long for you then.
00:03:56
Speaker
Yeah, it really hasn't, which is like really surprising for me. I mean, I am the kind of person that picks up on things quick, but I just, I feel like before you start knitting or crocheting, it's like this crazy beast. It just looks so difficult. I mean, what do you mean you take a ball of yarn and make a sweater, you know? What was the step between learning how to knit and crochet and designing?
00:04:25
Speaker
Um, well, I actually, I grew up watching Project Runway all the time with my sisters. Um, I've always been like really big into fashion and like my friends know me as a fashionista, one may call it. Um, so I've always just had, you know, my thoughts and my views on fashion, like things I like, things I don't like, but, um, I also sew, which really helps. Um, I started sewing
00:04:51
Speaker
I want to say in high school is when I started like taking it seriously actually got a sewing machine you know learning how things fit on people obviously it's not the same in knitting or crochet it as it is in sewing but the design and concept is the same of like I have this idea and how do I put my own spin on it so it really came from that
00:05:16
Speaker
There is still a lot that can be learned from pattern alterations and that sort of thing that can be transferred from sewing over to the only real difference is the type of fabric. And if you stop and think about it, we've been sewing on knits for 50, 60 years at least. And so there's a transposition there that
00:05:43
Speaker
can help. I have friends, a friend in particular, that has done couture sewing, as well as knitting and the things I've learned from him and how to
00:06:03
Speaker
Altar and how to make things fit and how things should sit on the body and the changes that need to be made from a woven fabric to a knitted fabric for example It's
Sewing vs. Knitting/Crochet
00:06:18
Speaker
the this the mountain is high and it keeps on going That does definitely correspond to a degree so
00:06:29
Speaker
Yeah, things like when you drape on a dress form say it would be different than having a flat pattern. And I feel like when you actually get the chance to drape fabrics on a body and you see what shapes make what piece, I feel like things really start to make a bit more sense. I would say for me, honestly, the biggest difference was going from
00:06:52
Speaker
flat pattern making where you lay out your fabric, lay out your pattern, cut it all out to actually making the piece itself so you know like when you make say a sweater and you're making the front panel when you go to sew it you're cutting out your armholes and you're cutting out your neck hole and you cut it all out at once but when you're knitting or crocheting or whatever you're doing with your fiber art
00:07:18
Speaker
you're making it from one end to the other and so in my brain it took just a teeny little bit of restructuring to understand that like I'm still making two armholes it should still look the same I'm just doing something different to get there
00:07:34
Speaker
Right. It's the act of shaping your fabric as you create it rather than having a piece of fabric shaping it and then sewing it. I know what you're saying there.
00:07:51
Speaker
Well, it sounds
Design Challenges and Philosophy
00:07:53
Speaker
like you've got a really interesting view of going from the sticks and the yarn or the hook and the yarn to the finished object, which explains the pattern that I edited for you that I really was struggling to see in my head the shape it was going to be.
00:08:17
Speaker
I literally had to draw. I literally had to draw it out to see it. It's a very interesting shade. Oh, I get what he's doing. But I like drew a schematic because I couldn't figure out where it was going to go. Wait, that's so cool. I would like to get up to that level one day. That was it was a really interesting
00:08:45
Speaker
process in my head because you know as an editor I want to make sure that
00:08:52
Speaker
your end goal is actually gonna match, especially when they don't have photos like that. So I really had to just draw it out on a piece of paper and go, okay, if he's got a rectangle, but he's gonna cut it in the middle and do this, oh, okay, I see what's happening here, right? But I literally had to do that to get there. Which was great. One of these days, I'll take an editing course.
00:09:20
Speaker
It really was helpful because I could see the ingenuity. I could see that this was going to be something different, which was great. I loved it. Anyway, when you design, who are you thinking of? Who's your ideal maker?
00:09:46
Speaker
Honestly, I always struggle with this question because I have so many thoughts and opinions on fashion and design, what have you. And I'm inspired by a lot of things. So I know like when it comes to like sewing and like the big fashion houses, you know, like
00:10:05
Speaker
Parada has their house codes, they call it, which is like their aesthetic, their viewpoint. Say when every time they made a shirt, if they always put their buttons on the left side, or if they always use red thread when they saw on their buttons, things like that, that's like their thing. And I feel as though I'm the kind of person where
00:10:29
Speaker
Maybe one day I want to sew my buttons on with red thread, and another day I want to use blue. Or maybe one day I want to use metallic thread or fishing line. I feel very fluid in that sense. Whereas I feel as though it's kind of get in where you fit in. Like if you see a pattern I made that you like, definitely hold on to that. But there's no guarantee that my next pattern will be in a similar fashion. So I would say that. So each pattern kind of has its own target.
00:10:59
Speaker
Yeah, like they're all very, I feel like all of my patterns, they, you would never look at my library and necessarily guess that it's all one person. I guess I designed for people who like to experiment and like to try different things. Because I mean, don't get me wrong, I do have my my comfort stitches and my comfort projects. But when it comes to designing things and putting in the effort into something that I feel like is deserving of a pattern, I feel like there's definitely going to be some
00:11:29
Speaker
ingenuity and some nuance in there that may not be present in another one of my patterns. So that is your target. It's the cutting edge. Yeah, I guess you could say that. Like we were talking about with the other pattern, it's that how can I, oh, I see this new shape, how can I get there?
00:11:54
Speaker
Right. Right. I love that. I think that it's great not to box yourself in.
00:12:05
Speaker
You know, I agree. That's, that's awesome. So I get why you, you, you have a hard time with the question. But I think your answer is that it's not so much a target audience as it is just pushing the boundaries.
00:12:29
Speaker
Yeah. Yeah, that is exactly what I mean. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. A little bit of Stephen West. Yeah. Yeah. I can definitely see that. I actually love his pattern so much. I'm not just there yet with my knitting to say I've made one, but I follow him very closely. I think his designs are so cool and how he is able to like take a stitch pattern and turn it into any shape.
First Design Experience
00:12:52
Speaker
That's, that's so cool. I know the math is crazy over there.
00:12:57
Speaker
So when did you actually take the leap from just learning to creating your first design? When did you publish that first pattern? My first pattern is actually a pattern that is very near and dear to my heart. It's called the long lost tote bag. And it is probably to date still one of my favorite things I've ever made. So it's made out of Tunisian crochet, which was
00:13:24
Speaker
a very interesting choice for my first pattern but the bag came about because I was really enjoying obviously my crocheting and I myself was in need of a tote bag and I couldn't find one that was really
00:13:43
Speaker
What I wanted at the time I wasn't the biggest fan of how every tote bag is a campus tote bag with a logo printed on it. Like where are the, the colorful bags that aren't made for groceries, you know what I mean. And so I ended up sitting there and
00:14:00
Speaker
Tunisian crocheting a little two panel bag you sew it together put a strap on it and the colors I had chosen I just thought were amazing like the best colors on the planet it's got this beachy feel to it it has um like blues and like a sandy beige and it's it's a really pretty bag but once I finished making the bag
00:14:23
Speaker
I wore it around like on the town and I got a lot of compliments and I was just thinking, if everyone else thinks this bag is as cool as I do, why don't I write it down? And so I wrote it down and I made two more samples and my friend was a photographer at the time and I was like, hey, can you take some pictures of me with this thing? And it was just a very rapid, very passionate moment for me.
00:14:52
Speaker
And it was just very, very exciting. I sold a few bags and it was from there. It was just like, oh yeah, like I could do this. Like I, if I had so much fun just making something that originally was just for me, how much more fun could I have if I actually put in some time and thought and made things that I think are worth selling. And how long ago was that?
00:15:17
Speaker
Uh, I want to say maybe about a year or two ago now, like about two years now. Okay. So it's, yeah. No, we're in 20. Um, it's been a while. It was, um, I want to say like about six months after I started crocheting. Okay. So very, very quickly from point A to point B.
00:15:39
Speaker
Oh yeah, when I say I had a lot of time in my hands, I mean a lot. Me and TL Yarn Crafts YouTube channel were best friends and I did nothing but knit and crochet for a solid, like I want to say three weeks. I still have all of my beginner swatches somewhere in a bag in my room. I actually think they're in here. Yeah, I've got them right next to me. Yeah, I get that. It all started from there.
00:16:09
Speaker
Wonderful. And how many patterns have you published so far? I want to say on my personal Ravelry, like where you can purchase patterns directly to me, there's definitely less than 10. But if I total them up, including I've designed for Lion Brand and Radical Threads magazine, a few yarn shops, I would say probably like over 15 now, maybe somewhere around there. Cool. Cool.
00:16:39
Speaker
Yeah, it's been really cool. It's been very exciting. And the name, Steph made that. Was that something you had before the designing and then it just carried through or did you consciously sit down and say, OK, this is what I'm going to brand myself as? I had a really hard time trying to figure out what to name my brand because I
00:17:07
Speaker
didn't know if I wanted to be like, I make pieces and I sell them or if I wanted to stick to doing patterns or if I wanted to branch off into sewing or what I wanted it to be.
Branding 'Steph Made That'
00:17:20
Speaker
And after trying to spend all this time figuring out like a word that stands out or let's make something up or whatever, I realized at the end of the day, the way that I personally see it is just that
00:17:35
Speaker
I'm a guy who makes stuff that I really enjoy. And so it's Steph made that because you never have to ask. I'm Stephane. And, you know, anytime you see something that I made, that's I made it because I wanted to because I loved it because I enjoyed it. So it just everything that I make under the brand all has the same reasoning. So why not just call it Steph made that?
00:17:59
Speaker
Excellent absolutely excellent. Do you knit or crochet other people's patterns still.
00:18:09
Speaker
Oh, for sure, for sure. Sometimes I feel like starting a new project and I don't feel like exerting the brain power to start said project. So it's great to scroll on Instagram or Pinterest and it's like, oh, that looks great. They already wrote the instructions. I will grab the nearest ball of yarn and get started. Yep, yep. But I also say one reason I also love making other people's patterns is learning new techniques.
00:18:39
Speaker
I know there's a million books and things out there, but sometimes just going on Instagram and you see something and you're like, that's really cool. I'll bookmark it. And when I find the time, I will sit down and try this, maybe a little more complex, maybe, you know, not my typical style, but to learn a new technique or try a, just something I haven't tried before. That's also a reason I enjoy other people's patterns.
00:19:03
Speaker
Yeah, I would agree with that one wholeheartedly. At this
Exploring New Techniques
00:19:08
Speaker
stage of the game in my knitting, there's not a whole lot I haven't done. So when I do run across something new, I am definitely up for giving it a try. But I've been knitting for almost 50 years.
00:19:25
Speaker
Wow. Congratulations. That's great. I really hope that I never get sick of this. I started knitting as a kid. I can honestly say that it hasn't been something I've done all the time through those 50 years. There have been periods where like when my kids were little, I had twins and then a third one when the twins were only two and a half years old.
00:19:50
Speaker
That was a period of time where I did very little knitting and crochet I did some crochet but not much knitting I did more sewing at that stage Sewing clothes for them, you know that kind of thing But yeah 50 years there there's
00:20:11
Speaker
I still went across techniques and I surround myself with people that are constantly working to create new techniques, which has been really fun. And so, you know, there's always something, but it's rare. So when I find something, I'm up for it, man, because give me something new. Yeah, that's really cool.
00:20:39
Speaker
I think my thing is I always want to make something that I at least feel capable of doing. So I do have a lot of patterns say that I still have yet to touch, but that's okay because I'm working to get there. Right. Yeah, I hear you.
00:20:59
Speaker
When you look at my very few patterns, the most recent ones that I've released have very unique techniques, double knitting and double knitted brioche.
00:21:15
Speaker
And by double needed brioche, that is a brioche done in a single pass, where even your increases and decreases look exactly the same on both sides, which in traditional brioche, they don't.
00:21:31
Speaker
And, um, that's, I'm still learning the increases and decreases part of it, but yeah, I haven't even touched a brioche knitting yet. That's, I do want to get there. I really do, but I am nowhere near that beast. It looks so scary. It's not, it really, honestly, regular brioche, even two color brioche is you're only ever working with one color at a time. Right.
00:22:00
Speaker
So you're only ever managing one yarn at a time. The other one's sitting off to the side, waiting for you to get back to it. So from that standpoint, it's not as hard as it looks. The problem comes if you drop a stitch, right? Because you have to be able to read your knitting well enough to see which strand, two strands go to that one stitch.
00:22:30
Speaker
That's the hardest part. But learning to read your knitting, that's the key. So you like to push the boundaries.
Finding Inspiration
00:22:50
Speaker
What do you look to for your inspiration? Where does your inspiration for your designs come from?
00:22:59
Speaker
I feel like I can get inspired by honestly anything. I think for me what where the challenge comes in is how long it takes for me to translate that inspiration into something. So I've had like
00:23:15
Speaker
instances where i have a bucket hat called the flower power bucket hat and it is one of those bucket hats that has the really ruffly brim that you've seen around on instagram but um mine has some post stitches on it to give it some structure so it sits more like a flower
00:23:34
Speaker
which you know that inspiration came to me super easy because I saw the hats already going around and I was thinking okay well what could just set mine apart and make it a little more wearable something to add a structural element but then I've also had times where it's like um I went to design
00:23:53
Speaker
say something inspired by leaves. And it's like, okay, well, there's a million interpretations of leaves. Am I going to do a lace pattern? Do I want to make it a leaf shape? Do I want to do different variations of green? You know, so it's like when it comes to actually translating that inspiration into something, I'll find a little bit of struggle, but I can definitely get inspired by anything. I have designed things around water. I designed
00:24:18
Speaker
a baby blanket pattern, which I haven't released yet, but it was inspired by the thought of, do you know the concept of like the Pinterest beige moms they call it? Yeah, I made a baby blanket that I was like, what would a beige mom want in her kid's room? And that's how that blanket came about. So I can truly be inspired by anything. I just, I'm just having fun. I have to know, what did you call it?
00:24:47
Speaker
I haven't come up with a name for it yet, but I wanted to name it maybe like Mason or like Haley or something, but like spell it kind of funny. I love that idea. Like an Ashley baby blanket and it's like EIGH or something. Just something fun. A little silly, nothing offensive, just a little silly.
00:25:07
Speaker
Yeah, I love it. I think that's great. I think that what I'm hearing you say is that sometimes you have an idea, but you don't necessarily have the techniques yet. And you've got to
Technique Development Challenges
00:25:24
Speaker
figure out the techniques to make it happen.
00:25:27
Speaker
Yeah. That really is like where a lot of it comes in is because you if you have more of a stitch vocabulary, then you'll know, oh, I know this stitch that looks exactly like this specific kind of leaf instead of this is a general relief pattern. And then you could even you can be more specific with what you intend to create because you are more comfortable and more familiar with the possibilities of what you can actually create.
00:25:56
Speaker
Yeah, I have a design that I'll probably not start working on until next fall that I'm struggling with a similar situation. I know I want to use double knitted brioche to create the pattern, but because I'm not as familiar with the increases and decreases,
00:26:24
Speaker
I'm not sure quite how to make the shape happen. So I've got to figure that part out before I can actually do the design. But the design is there. It's in my head. Actually, I don't know if you do this, but I keep a notebook. Oh, where's mine? That's right here. It's right here. I got my notebook right here.
00:26:47
Speaker
Yeah, because when an idea hits you, you may not have the time or energy to put into it right now. So yeah, keeping a design notebook. And mine actually is digital. Ooh, I like that.
00:27:06
Speaker
rather than a paper notebook. That way, it's with me all the time, because it goes from my computer to my phone to my iPad. So no matter where I'm at, I can access it and add the design. And it's in the form of a Kanban board. So I can move things around. When I'm to the point of actually starting it, I can see which ones am I actually working on. It's my
00:27:36
Speaker
I think it's my left-brainedness that has to do that. Because I am more of a left-brained person. I've done accounting in my life. I've been a teacher. That's my main thing. I've been a teacher all of my life. I mean, even as a kid. And last week was Teachers Week. Thank you for your work as a teacher.
00:28:05
Speaker
My sister was the boss. I was the teacher. That's just the way it's in our house. My sister still the boss. I was going to say, you got the better job. So, yeah, writing those things down and then I'll go back and I'll make notes on how I what techniques I think will work.
00:28:32
Speaker
because I do have a fairly wide repertoire after 50 years. That might be a hint for you there. I am honestly unpopular opinion. I
00:28:48
Speaker
hate making gauge swatches and i say unpopular opinion even though knowing that the supported opinion i will make a gauge swatch i will suffer through it because i know they're important i will never deny that a gauge swatch is important because they are but i hate having to sit down and actually organize my thoughts which is why i love my notebook because i feel as though even though i'm not actually making anything
00:29:13
Speaker
I can trial and error on a piece of paper and if it's bad I can rip it out or I can test out colors and combinations and things like that. Actually though I will say you're right about the digital aspect because I can't tell you how many notes I've like sit down and tried to draw with my finger on my phone and I get home and I'm like what is that?
00:29:36
Speaker
Yeah, well, when it comes to the drawing part of it, I initially, I'm not an artist.
00:29:44
Speaker
Both of my sisters, I have two, one older and one younger, are really good with paints and colored pencils and that kind of thing. I mean, they're really good at it. I've never really been good at that. But initial drawings are always done on paper. And a really good pack of colored pencils is a designer's favorite friend. Oh, that's a game changer.
00:30:14
Speaker
Yeah, but when it comes to actually keeping things long term, I'll take a photo of that and tuck it into the digital note so that I don't lose it because I will lose pieces of paper faster than you can blink.
00:30:36
Speaker
Yeah, I always, I'm not afraid to tear out a page, so I also do the same thing actually. Yeah, yeah. So have you ever, in the short time you've been doing it, has there been a moment where it was overwhelming, where the designing was overwhelming and you were like, maybe this isn't what I should be doing?
00:30:59
Speaker
Oh for sure,
Overcoming Design Overwhelm
00:31:00
Speaker
yeah. I feel like it's also because I did go from learning the actual craft to designing so quickly, but I found myself in the usual way of comparing myself to others because I was so new and I'm wondering, you know,
00:31:18
Speaker
Is it because I'm new or is it because my ideas aren't good enough? Like what exactly keeps people from looking in my direction? And obviously also I am like actually pretty young. I'm 22. So that's also like a being a young person thing, like failing to understand that social media is not real life.
00:31:38
Speaker
And it's not that people aren't looking for your work. It just may not come up on their feed. The algorithm is in charge of what you see. It's not you not working hard enough. It's not your designs not being good enough. It's none of that. It is literally, what does this robot want this person to see right now?
00:31:57
Speaker
that definitely at first was affecting my my mojo my my passion but as time has gone on and i've taken on less projects i've definitely been able to overcome that a little bit i would say the thing that i'm more so i don't want to say struggling with now but um like
00:32:18
Speaker
going over repeatedly is where I want to go with my brand because I've been making patterns and releasing patterns for a little bit now, but I feel like I can only
00:32:34
Speaker
do so much before I'm going to want to do something more. So I'm wondering, you know, what is, what is my next step? What should I be working towards? I don't want this to become monotonous. I want to, you know, still have that enjoyment. So I'm wondering maybe if I incorporate my sewing or if this becomes less of a
00:32:54
Speaker
brand and more of like an influencer kind of thing or do I want to go hardcore with the patterns and release collections like some people do you know things like that there's so many directions I could go in that is more so what I'm you know but debating with now is like it's not that it's not worth it to design it's just that I need I need something to
00:33:20
Speaker
What should that goal be? What should that next? Because you've got to look out to the future. You're young enough that you really need to look to the future and you need to look to that five and 10 years down the road and then figure out, okay, do I really want to go here? If so, what do I do to get there?
00:33:41
Speaker
Right. Because after a certain point in time, certain things do become unfeasible. So it's like, you know, be due to the capitalist machine we live in. Unfortunately, I do have to figure out if this will be feasible in the future or if I need to set my sights on something else. But I believe that I am talented enough. It's just about what I want to do and how I want to get there. But whatever it is, I'm sure I'll be great. It's just what is that?
00:34:11
Speaker
You know, I have every confidence that you will be great because I saw what you did with what you sent me. I saw the innovation. I saw the creativity. You're going to be another unique voice.
00:34:32
Speaker
you just need to figure out how much of a voice you want to be. Honestly, I really see that in you, Stefan. Thank you. I see that spark in what you sent me. Thank you. Thank you a lot. I'm behind you all the way. I truly am because I saw something in that pattern that I haven't seen for a while.
00:35:02
Speaker
Keep going. You mentioned you're sewing, you've mentioned crochet and knit, which I love the fact that you're you're you do both, not just one. Is there anything else in the fiber world that you like to do?
Expanding Skills and Future Plans
00:35:26
Speaker
does collecting yarn count yes most definitely i haven't bought yarn in a while i've been trying to put myself on a yarn bin because it is getting a bit out of control but um besides those honestly no however
00:35:42
Speaker
I do want to expand. I have a needle felting kit that a dear friend of mine gave me, and it's been collecting a bit of dust in my closet. But I think I am ready to plan a project that incorporates a few of those things. I want to knit a sweater or a vest and needle felt some shapes and things onto it. I remember when needle felting was super popular all those years ago. I want to say like,
00:36:09
Speaker
2016 2018 the cardigans with all the elbow patches I've always wanted those so I'm thinking you know how can I make it more fun and actually develop a new skill who knows if this will go anywhere farther but you just gave me an idea because my husband wears his sweaters literally to rags
00:36:37
Speaker
Some needle felting around the cuffs might solve one of the problems. That sounds really good. That's a great idea, actually. He works in IT, so he's in a cold server room a lot of his days. And so even if it's warm outside, he's got to have a sweater with him.
00:37:02
Speaker
in order to maintain. Plus, the new office he's in, he's directly below the air conditioner. Oh no, that's a blessing and a curse. Yeah, so he gets to work and even though it's warm outside, he puts his sweater back on.
00:37:22
Speaker
Oh, for sure. You would have to. And he wears them to absolute rags, literally. It's so funny. So you gave me a really good idea. Thank you. I think the reason I love asking that question is because I've done so many things. I weave, I spin, I knit. I do some crochet, but that is not
00:37:48
Speaker
Well, I'm gonna show Stefan something here, folks. I crocheted a cactus.
00:37:59
Speaker
That is amazing. Oh my gosh. That is amazing. It's not my pattern. I will admit it came from a pattern. But yeah, it's my favorite desk accessory. Yeah, honestly, it looks beautiful. If you didn't tell me it was crocheted, I probably would think it's real cactus. They do have those hairy, wispy cactus varieties. That's really pretty.
00:38:25
Speaker
The pattern called for the base yarn is, is cotton. And then you use the, um, scrubby yarn, you know, the, the, the acrylic, you know, yarn that people make dish scrubbies out of. And that's what creates a hairy look out of it. And it just, it was so much fun. I did it at Christmas time and had a blast. That looks fantastic.
00:38:56
Speaker
So yeah, I do so many different things. I like to hear what other people are into as well as their, what kind of things do you sew? I honestly, I really enjoy women's wear and I would love to get more into men's wear. It's just that my gripe is that men's wear is not as
00:39:20
Speaker
fun and creative as women's wear is and obviously that presents a unique niche for me to somehow fill but my problem is that i don't feel like i've explored all i want to explore in women's wear i just i
00:39:36
Speaker
love a pretty dress. What can I say? I love a pretty dress. It's just there's not many things better in the world than a red carpet because it is full of pretty dresses. And then if you walk around a Joann's, like there's so many luxury fabrics or like even like bridal, like I love bridal gowns because they really are just so special.
00:40:02
Speaker
And men's wear doesn't really have that. I think men's wear is really about technique and fit. Whereas women's wear, yes, those things are important, but it's more about the idea and what you can do. Like, you know, women's wear, you've got
00:40:18
Speaker
bright colors and pleats and ruffles and ruching and beading and you know and menswear it's every red carpet it's like here's a black suit and satin here's a black suit with a silk lapel here is a silk shirt you know it's everything is it's all about technique and although technique is beautiful i would love it if menswear could be more optical in the way that women's wear is
00:40:43
Speaker
Yes, I get that completely. And I know a number of our male gendered designers are fighting that very issue.
Men's Fashion Design Challenges
00:40:57
Speaker
Right, exactly. It's really hard. And especially when you come at it from knitting and crochet, it seems even more restrictive in what you can find for men.
00:41:10
Speaker
Exactly. I feel like it's a lot of adapting sweaters and garments designed for AFAB people, assigned female at birth people to make them fit you or going up in sizes. And it's just really hard because people aren't as receptive to male presenting people in traditionally feminine clothing. I'm not really like a
00:41:34
Speaker
huge gender roles person. I mean like don't get me wrong, I am I identify as a cisgender male and I still present very masculine but I also collect purses and I love rhinestones and you know like I have no opposition to a man in a skirt kind of thing but I also feel as though since everyone is not like me obviously I'm going to be more
00:42:00
Speaker
receptive and more willing to the idea. It's about how do you get people who aren't as receptive and willing to give that the time of day, how do you get them to see what you see, which is where the challenge comes in because obviously there is some dismantling. Our society still isn't there yet. Right. There's a lot more work than just, you know, signs and Instagram posts. Yeah, I totally get it.
00:42:30
Speaker
Being from a much older generation, I've seen changes since I was a kid, but I also know having young children, because I started my family very late. I am 63. My youngest is 18. Oh, wow. That's so cool. And she graduates this week. OK. That is so cool. Yeah.
00:42:59
Speaker
have taught me a lot about seeing the world in a better way. That youngest child is my teacher in so many ways. And on so many levels, it's amazing.
00:43:25
Speaker
Yeah. I love that. That's awesome. But it's helped me recognize. And while I still struggle to design from that perspective, I love the fact that there are designers out there that I can support that are doing work to broaden that
00:43:55
Speaker
The gap. Jill Walcott and what she's done to broaden just the idea of sizing. Because instead of looking at the outward body, she's looking at the bone structure.
00:44:15
Speaker
and trying to create sizing based on bone structures. So you said, you know, female at birth, right? But you're not female anymore. You still have a unique bone structure. And sizing is going to be different from you for that person than it is for someone who was male at birth and still presents as a male. Yeah.
00:44:45
Speaker
I also think that, um, I also love when, um, when I get a pattern and I see that instead of, um, like extra small, small, medium, they'll go like one, two, three, four, or ABCD. Cause I feel like that also really helps you feel more comfortable selecting whatever size. And it's not tied to like, Oh, I'm a, I'm an extra small and women's and a medium and men's kind of thing. You know, it really, it's about bridging that gap.
00:45:13
Speaker
The episode that just released earlier this month was literally talking about the misconception when you use those standard terms.
00:45:27
Speaker
and how it's important to look more at what is the physical dimensions and the shape. Exactly. The pattern I'm working really hard on right now, it's in testing. It's going to have to go through a second test phase because I didn't get enough testers. I have 20 sizes in it. Oh, wow. Congratulations. That's amazing.
00:45:56
Speaker
Um, it still doesn't go as high as I wish it did because the size charts don't go that high. And I, and it's a struggle to extrapolate how much difference it will be as it goes higher, but I'm working on that. Um, it has 20 sizes. It has two sleeve legs and at three body shapes.
00:46:16
Speaker
That's amazing. That's beautiful. I'm excited for that. I'm very excited for that. As I designed it, I realized that my initial concept was too restrictive.
00:46:30
Speaker
And so I decided to add, instead of just one with waist shaping so that it comes in a little bit and goes out, I did an A line for those who have larger hips, smaller chest, and I did a straight up and down. That's great, that's done it. So it's got all three of those categories in the same design. Yes, you said if you want this item, you can have this item.
00:46:59
Speaker
Yeah, no matter who you are, as long as it fits your body's shape, you know, your sizing with your comfortable ease, you can make the sweater. That's amazing. That's really amazing. That's very groundbreaking, actually. I don't think I've ever heard of a pattern with so many sizes. That's very exciting.
00:47:25
Speaker
Um, they're getting a little more common. Some sweaters, it's almost impossible to do that many sizes because of pattern repeats. You know, when you've got a stitch repeat, that is, you know, like for example, the stitch repeat on the ribbing is 12 stitches. There's only so much you can do with 12 stitches. Right. I made it work. But when you get into like, um,
00:47:56
Speaker
color patterns and things like that where you've got these repeats, you have to remember that the size can only the physical measurements can only be X because you have to have a full repeat. Right. Right. So what was 20 sizes may only actually fit into 10. Right. Because right.
00:48:21
Speaker
Right. The range is more important to me than the number of sizes. It goes from a, and I, I design in centimeters and then convert to inches. So I have trouble remembering goes from 70 centimeters up to 160 centimeters. And that's 28 inches up to like 65 inches, 66 inches somewhere in there.
00:48:52
Speaker
That's nice. I honestly, I curse the American education system. I really wish that I knew how to use like meters and with the metric system. Every time I read a pattern or like sometimes I'll buy European patterns and they simply do not have the imperial system in there, I'm like, gosh, I feel really American right now. I can help you with that. Yes, you got to teach me.
00:49:23
Speaker
So I forgot to tell you that this episode is actually we are recording one week early. It will go out next Tuesday. Okay, what is coming in? What's what's coming up? What's next?
Pride-Themed Knit-Along Announcement
00:49:41
Speaker
So I actually am very, very, very excited. I am the featured designer for Gary Nicks Gary Rides annual pride in it along. So we're going to kick off on in June.
00:49:56
Speaker
which I'm really excited about. And my pattern for that will be releasing super, super soon. I just have to finish up these last few rows and get these pictures taken and she'll be ready to go. So ideally that'll be ASAP. I don't want to give a set in stone date just yet, just cause you never know. I make it busy and have to finish a few rows tomorrow. You know what I mean? But yes, I'm extremely excited about that. This pattern is called the follow your path shawl.
00:50:25
Speaker
It is an arrow-shaped shawl in the colors of the progress flag, and the shape starts with your traditional colors and points down towards progress, which I'm really excited about. I think it's going to be
00:50:42
Speaker
not only is it a great message but I think the actual design and the I don't know just the for me personally you knit every color and you really spend some time with that color and so it's like you know as you progress I'm noticing myself thinking about the community and you know how
00:51:06
Speaker
important it is that we have this new flag that has become so commonplace because the last time to my knowledge that the flag was changed they removed I believe like pink and turquoise and this was this was so many years ago so many years ago and so for us to have a new flag that I feel like only encompasses the community even greater it's just
00:51:31
Speaker
It's really beautiful and I'm really enjoying my time working on this shawl and I'm hoping that everyone who purchases this pattern and joins us on the knit-along will also really enjoy the time they get to spend with this shawl. Well, I can tell everybody this is the pattern I've mentioned a couple of times here that I helped
00:51:51
Speaker
stiff on with and the unique shape of it just blew me away and I can't wait to see it in color because as you say that that flag it means something to me too.
00:52:06
Speaker
as an ally, as a parent of it means a lot. And I'm thrilled to see it come out. And you're right, spending a time with each of the colors and thinking about what that color represents can be a huge part of that project. And I really, I really look forward to helping you promote it.
00:52:32
Speaker
Thank you. I'm very excited. Don't forget to send me the photos because I want to let people know this is coming. They'll be super soon. I am hoping to have this done by the end of the week. We're going to see only because I have another project that I'm also working on that is due at the end of the week. So they will definitely be.
00:52:52
Speaker
plus a day job. Oh, yes, also that actually I bright and early I'll be in the office tomorrow. So yeah, everything is kind of fighting for the spotlight right now. But 1000% this project will be done soon. There will be pictures and it's going to be amazing. I'm just really excited to actually get to
00:53:11
Speaker
do this. A lot of people don't know this but Gary and I were actually talking about me collaborating with him for this net along since last year. So I've just been sitting on this pattern waiting for this opportunity and it's finally here and I'm super over the moon excited and I really hope that
00:53:34
Speaker
Like I already know that no matter how the reception is that I already love this pattern. I've loved it for a year since I designed it last year. I've loved it for, you know, I've just been really enjoying this pattern, but I just hope that the reception, that people see what I'm trying to do here. You know, that's really the important part for me is that the message is clear and coming across in the way that I plan for it too.
00:53:59
Speaker
I understand that completely and do let me help in any way I possibly can because Gary is a dear friend of mine and I have supported Gary now for two years I think and love being behind the scenes and helping him where I can and
00:54:21
Speaker
helping the designers he works with because he tends to work with newer designers most of the time. He loves supporting them as much as he loves supporting his end aids and the ride along and all.
00:54:38
Speaker
It's an important thing to me to support that in any way I possibly can. So do make sure I get photos so that I can push it out there because a lot of my people know I support it and it's a big deal to me.
00:55:01
Speaker
Anyway, so anything else you say you're working on another project, is that something that's coming in the pipeline or is it just for you?
00:55:10
Speaker
Well, I actually, this specific product I'm referencing is actually a pattern test for a friend of mine, but I do have some other patterns that I want to get done at some point this summer. I honestly, I will be honest, I design a lot of things that do not see the light of day, which is really funny because I will go through the whole process of
00:55:32
Speaker
running it out and typing it up and testing it and all these things. And I just won't release it. I don't know. I really have no clue. But I ideally would like to get at least three of them out this year. One that I will talk about that I'm really excited about is a halter top. This is going to be my second garment, but my first more feminine garment.
00:56:00
Speaker
I just released my first first garment. It was a sweater with Lion Brand yarn recently.
00:56:05
Speaker
But this one is going to be more exciting because I want this to be a pattern that is very customizable. I want it to have a big size range. I want it. I want to make sure that it's it's a great summer top. And I just want to make sure that it it, you know, does its job as an effective summer top. I want it to be comfortable, you know, something you can go to and pick up. You know, like I just I want to make sure that I'm putting in
00:56:34
Speaker
the right amount of effort into this, because it's going to be excellent. It's going to be, I mean, probably more exciting for me, because at the end of the day, it is just a simple halter top, but the actual process of, you know, deciding the top and deciding on a halter top even. I'm seeing more interest in knitters wanting to knit that kind of thing, though, too.
00:57:00
Speaker
Um, there was a, there was a period where, where very few knitters and crocheters, you know, fiber workers, um, wore that kind of thing, but it's becoming more popular. So I think now is a good time for that. So yeah, let me know if that can help in any way. Um, any, since you are new and you're still thinking in terms of.
00:57:31
Speaker
that growth process. What advice would you give someone that's sitting there thinking they might like to do this but they're unsure? Well, one, definitely take your time. Not that there's anything wrong with being really excited and jumping headfirst into something, but I
00:57:55
Speaker
do notice with other newer designers, and maybe I'm guilty of this and I haven't looked in the mirror lately.
00:58:05
Speaker
technique and uh like consistency in writing patterns and things like that are important and they do matter you know if you would like your patterns to be accessible then there are you know the guidelines of the craft council and you know things like that that you can follow as a baseline to make sure that
00:58:29
Speaker
your sizing can be relatively standardized or that your patterns can be more easily read, you know, using the proper abbreviations and things like that. All that stuff just helps you create more well-rounded work that you can look back on in a few years and be like, wow, my first pattern was solid, you know? And another thing I would say is comparison is the thief of joy.
00:59:00
Speaker
There is nothing wrong with seeing your peers and thinking that they're making really cool things, but that is no reason that you should think your work is of any less value. Because at the end of the day, they're your peers. You are all at the same level, and you are all fighting the same battles of being a young designer, and you're all trying to make it to the same place. There is no reason that you should see
00:59:26
Speaker
someone else's work and doubt that you could not also produce something of that same caliber. Look at that as inspiration rather than as comparison. That's what I would say. I have to do the same thing all the time. Because even though I've been in it for 50 years, I've been a designer for two. You know, so yeah, totally, totally get that.
00:59:55
Speaker
Although I will say sometimes it sucks when you see a design and you're like, dang, I wish I thought of that. Oh, hey, that's when you look at it and say, how can I make it better? Right, right. What's my spin? Yeah, what's my spin on that? How can I make that better? Yeah, that's I would agree with that as well. So last but not least, Stefan, where can I listen these listeners find you?
01:00:25
Speaker
You
Follow Stefan for Updates
01:00:26
Speaker
guys can find me on Instagram, Pinterest, Ravelry, and YouTube. Steph made that. S-T-E-P-H made that. I sell my patterns on Ravelry. Mostly, maybe I'll branch out one day, not yet, but I sell all my patterns on Ravelry. I have the occasional podcast episode on my YouTube channel.
01:00:51
Speaker
But if you want to stay most up to date with me, I definitely recommend finding me on Instagram.
01:00:57
Speaker
Excellent. We will make sure to put links for the YouTube and the Ravelry in the show notes and make sure everybody can find you nice and easy. And your Instagram, of course, which I am a follower now that I found you. And we'll get people connected and they can watch your Instagram for the release of this new pattern.
01:01:27
Speaker
Yes, I'm excited. I've got to make sure I'm posting more frequently now that I know there's going to be people looking. But hey, I do post stories that has to count for something. Yeah, I'm very inconsistent with my posting as well. But yeah, it is what it is. I don't try to push the algorithm. I just don't try to push that algorithm. It's not my thing. Right. The people who see your pattern are the people who are meant to see it.
01:01:57
Speaker
That's right. Honestly, you'd be surprised how far things can travel. Yeah. And and it's amazing when one person sees it and loves it and says to their friend, oh, you've got to look at this and and the momentum that can take. Yeah. And and
01:02:18
Speaker
I think the one thing I'd like to add here to your designer suggestions is set yourself the goal to put out so many patterns and make them consistent because the more frequently you release, the more frequently people see you. That is true as well. But you don't want to overbook yourself. I made myself the goal of six patterns this year
01:02:49
Speaker
I, with the delay in test knitting, we'll see if that happens, but you know, it is what it is.
01:02:57
Speaker
Yes, I'm going to start actually hitting publish. Uh, yeah, exactly. Um, Stefan, it's been fabulous. I am so, so, so excited to have someone like you on the podcast with me. And, um, thank you for trusting me with your pattern last week and, um, help my trusting my help and, uh,
01:03:27
Speaker
Talking with me today has been great.
01:03:30
Speaker
I want to thank you so, so much for having me on this podcast. I had a great time. And honestly, you are genuinely one of the best tech editors I've ever had. I feel like all of your notes were so clear and concise. Like, I feel like even though we're corresponding over email, I didn't have any further questions. And I feel like that's something that sometimes maybe it's like, okay, well, what did they mean here? And it's like, well, I don't want to, you know, email them. It's late at night.
01:03:57
Speaker
working on this at 1am like a crazy person, you know, and I just, I can't thank you enough for that. Oh, you're quite, quite welcome. However, I will say don't worry about emailing at 1am because my notifications are turned off. I'll see it in the morning.
01:04:18
Speaker
Although I have to admit, I'm a night owl and your 1am is definitely not my 1am. So you might even catch me. We're four hours in time difference. So, um, you know, I'm probably still awake at that point. Yeah. I'll have to keep that one in mind, actually.
01:04:43
Speaker
All right, you have a wonderful rest of your day. Thank you so much. I hope you have the same. Don't forget to like and subscribe wherever you listen and join the conversation in our Ravelry or Facebook groups.
01:05:07
Speaker
For show notes or knit tech editing and related services, please visit my website at arcticedits.com.