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Eating Fish in the Age of Limits with Paul Greenberg image

Eating Fish in the Age of Limits with Paul Greenberg

S2 E9 · Agrarian Futures
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Fish have long been one of the last wild foods, a source of nourishment that connects us to the powerful ecology of the planet’s waters. But as journalist and author Paul Greenberg chronicles in his award-winning book Four Fish: The Future of the Last Wild Food, our relationship with the sea has dramatically changed over the past century. Once nearly all of the seafood we ate was wild; today, nearly half is farmed and the pressures on both wild and farmed systems are intensifying.

In this conversation, Paul doesn’t simply lament loss nor offer blind optimism. Instead, he helps us see where wild fisheries and aquaculture have faltered, where they remain strong, and how our choices today will shape the future of seafood and the oceans that feed us. Viewed through the lens of regenerative agriculture, his insights show that healthy waters and healthy land are part of the same story, and that ecological regeneration on farms must be paired with thoughtful stewardship of our rivers, estuaries, and oceans.

In this episode, we get into:

• What history teaches us about the human-ocean relationship and how it changed as we tamed the sea
• How modern fishing and seafood production mirror some of the same challenges in industrial agriculture
• Why some wild fisheries can still be models of careful management
• Where aquaculture offers real promise and where it deepens existing problems
• How ecological health, species diversity, and regional systems are essential for both land and sea
• What eating fish in ways that support long-term abundance actually looks like
• Why regenerative principles belong in discussions about oceans as much as soil

More about Paul:

Paul writes at the intersection of the environment and technology, seeking to help his readers find emotional and ecological balance with their planet. He is the author of seven books including the New York Times bestseller Four Fish: The Future of the Last Wild Food. His other books are The Climate Diet, Goodbye Phone, Hello World, The Omega Principle, American Catch, A Third Term and the novel, Leaving Katya.

Paul’s writing on oceans, climate change, health, technology, and the environment appears regularly in The New York Times and many other publications. He’s the recipient of a James Beard Award for Writing and Literature, a Pew Fellowship in Marine Conservation, a National Endowment for the Arts Literature Fellowship and many other grants and awards.

A frequent guest on national television and radio including Fresh Air with Terry Gross and the co-creator of the podcast Fish Talk, Paul also works in film, television and documentary. His PBS Frontline documentary The Fish on My Plate was among the most viewed Frontline films of the 2017 season and his TED Talk has reached over 1.5 million viewers to date. He has lectured widely at institutions around the world ranging from Harvard to Google to the United States Senate. A graduate in Russian Studies from Brown University, Paul speaks Russian and French. He currently teaches within New York University’s Animals Studies program and lives at Ground Zero in Manhattan where he maintains a family and a terrace garden and produces, to his knowledge, the only wine grown south of 14th Street.

Agrarian Futures is produced by Alexandre Miller, who also wrote our theme song. This episode was edited by Drew O’Doherty.

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Transcript

Introduction to Agrarian Futures and Challenges

00:00:02
Speaker
In season two of Agrarian Futures, we're starting with a simple question. How did we get here? Farms are disappearing. Land is getting harder to access. Rural economies are hollowing out.
00:00:14
Speaker
But there are people building better ways forward. Join us as we investigate what's broken in our food system and what it looks like to build something better.
00:00:29
Speaker
So, Paul, thank you so much for being willing to join today and have this conversation. the The theme of this season of Agrarian Futures is how do we get here?

History and Future of Agriculture and Fisheries

00:00:40
Speaker
And most of our podcast is focused on land-based agriculture and figuring out what's the history of land-based agriculture so that we understand the history and so that we can then understand better what's ahead of us and make wiser decisions.
00:00:59
Speaker
But so little of of the attention in food production, I think, goes towards fisheries. It's certainly not been something that's that's front and center for me. In many ways, what has happened in fisheries mirrors what has happened in land-based agriculture.
00:01:15
Speaker
But it's it's kind of a mysterious thing. It's all underwater. We can't see it. We don't we can't see where the fish are. Everything everything literally looks the same. It's all it's all blue. um And so it's it's something that is outside of the realm of most of our knowledge.
00:01:32
Speaker
um But there's so much here that as I'm getting into it, There are so many interesting parallels to what we've done on the land that we're now ah hundreds, if not thousands of years later doing in our oceans as well. um And your book for a fish in particular, that book did a fantastic job of giving us the the history of ah human interaction with fisheries and and also charting a path forward of what of what that might look like.
00:02:03
Speaker
So can we start off today, can we start this conversation with

Human Interaction with Water Ecosystems

00:02:07
Speaker
with this? Can you sketch out for us just the general outline of the evolution of how humans have interacted with fish and fisheries, starting with the areas closest to the shore and then going further and further out over time as we were technologically able to do so?
00:02:25
Speaker
Sure. Yeah, well, it all fisheries all... are dependent upon where you can physically get as a human being. um So early on in human history, fishing was very much associated with land-based fisheries, that is lakes, rivers, things that we had easy access to. um And It's possible there's very, you know, of course, the archaeological evidence is sketchy at best to try and figure out where fishing and fisheries came from. But there does seem to be some evidence that
00:03:02
Speaker
early humanids ah hominids rather Early hominids could have been um exposed to the presence of fish during dry seasons when oxbows in rivers dried out and suddenly they had access to actually pull these fish out of the water.
00:03:17
Speaker
um Probably there was a fair amount of early ah shellfish gathering. um there is um There is a ah hypothesis put out there called the aquatic ape hypothesis, which is that...
00:03:31
Speaker
ah possibly pre-humans somewhere in the evolutionary tree. Humans waited out and gathered things like mussels and clams and oysters, threw them in the fire, busted them open with a rock and ate them. And there's a kind of funny coincidental, um,
00:03:52
Speaker
it's that I think it's in Pinnacle Point, South Africa. They found a cave with some of the earliest art that predates much, much other earlier cave, of much later cave art in Europe. um And it happens to be right adjacent to what would have been shellfish beds. So there are some people kind of play that game that somehow because we had suddenly more access to omega-3 fatty acids, as your listeners who know their ah chemistry a bit, um the brain by volume has a huge amount of DHA, omega-3 fatty acids. So that's possibly one. So obviously early on, it was sort of a gathering sort of thing.
00:04:30
Speaker
um As people started to understand that there were fish out there, ah early fishing techniques developed. You you know you see um in the Holocene development of hooks, of spears, and things like that. And as you say, mostly close to shore.
00:04:46
Speaker
We started to anticipate and understand what are called diadromous fish, that are fish that are... start their lives in either salt or fresh and then migrate into fresher salt. So within diadromy, you have anadromy and catadromy. Anadromy, the fish start in freshwater as babies. They go out to sea, they get big, and they come back. And so early humans...
00:05:10
Speaker
so That would be your salmon, your shad, yeah, and herring. Eels go the other way for whatever reason. Eels actually start in saltwater and then mature and fresh. But whatever the case, ah humans became conscious of those life cycles and that they realized they could actually time...
00:05:27
Speaker
their own migrations to fish migrations. And there was apparently a huge migration that took place but um of tribes in North America between Ohio and more coastal areas. um Just as Plains Indians would have followed Buffalo, um those Northeastern Indians knew that come a certain month in the summer that those anadromous fish would be coming inshore and they could um harvest those fish. So obviously don't you don't need a boat, you don't need anything like that.
00:05:56
Speaker
um So that's pretty much the deal for, I would i guess you would call Neolithic humans or you know humans that are not adapted or have not advanced into ocean technologies.
00:06:07
Speaker
um But then you start to see um the rise of fishing vessels in the classical period. you know The Romans fished, the Egyptians fished, the Greeks fished, mostly within the context of nearshore waters within the Mediterranean Sea.
00:06:21
Speaker
um Ocean-going vessels and fishing required ah better technology. Mark Kurlansky in his book Cod, I don't know if you've ever read that book, but um great, great book. But he posits that really the first ocean-going fishermen who really went beyond their comfort zone were the Basque and posits that it was the Basque and not the Norse people who discovered North America and that they were mostly looking for codfish. And um there is some evidence that suggests that maybe the Basque did that.
00:06:52
Speaker
um Yeah, and so you know from then, um some people link the rise of more industrial forms of fishing to the spread of Catholicism throughout ah Northern Europe insofar as that you know the church mandates um fast days with no meat on on Fridays. So yeah,
00:07:13
Speaker
suddenly you have this demand for meat, or for fish meat, rather. um There were lake-based sources of fish in Europe, but those quickly got outstripped by populations as they grew. So further and further ashore offshore, um that goes that just proceeds to grow throughout um the latter part of the second millennia after Christ. And then Once steam power comes along, um you have a whole new order of fishing vessels that can go further and further. And then the real killer app that makes fishing global, where every fish is targetable anywhere in the world,
00:07:52
Speaker
um at any moment is freezing technology. So once you can freeze freeze ship once you can freeze freeze fish right after after you've caught them, and this freezing technology develops with Clarence Birdseye in the 20s and then gets better and better, um to the point where once you get to the 50s, 60s, and keep in mind World War II, also really advanced fishing technology, sonar, where you can actually look into the water and see where the fish are, um lightweight polymers that allow you to have bigger and bigger nets or long lines.

Technological Advancements in Fishing

00:08:22
Speaker
By that point, 50s, 60s, you're having these ocean-going vessels that can stay at sea for multiple weeks at a time, freeze their catch on board, and that's when you start seeing the globalization of tuna, um swordfish, things like that. So you asked for that in a nutshell. That's the smallest nutshell I can make for you from several thousand years of history.
00:08:43
Speaker
I love it. Fisheries are such a complex thing, and we're only really just starting to learn how to manage them in the last number of decades. um and And it requires such collaboration with so many different players.
00:08:57
Speaker
It's interesting to me that this... the The evolution has happened so much later than it has on land. And the access seems to be the number one limiting factor. On land, you can walk somewhere and you you just can't do that in the oceans. And so the the um the the changes in the way that we have managed things, let's say 20,000 years ago, we were mostly hunter-gatherers.
00:09:23
Speaker
And then over time ah transitioned some people transitioned into herding and some people transitioned into agriculture over time as well and settled down and started to to grow things themselves and and cultivate those.
00:09:39
Speaker
And that's something that we're only now getting started with doing with with fisheries. Can you share a little bit about the history of fisheries? fish culture of growing, growing fish in aquaculture, ah both how that used to be done on presumably much smaller scales on land and how we see that now playing out, uh, in the modern day.
00:10:05
Speaker
Yeah. Well, first of all, I mean, I think um transition is a very gentle way of saying obliteration. um I think humans generally have followed a delete and replace model when it comes to wildlife. we we we We encounter, ah you know, edible amounts of wildlife.
00:10:22
Speaker
We pick and choose what we like. We preserve those several species that kind of work with us in some way, shape or form. um There was a scientist named Galton who was a cousin of Darwin, also a horrible eugenicist, but he wrote a treatise on about the domestication of animals. And I think he has some crazy sentence, which is something like, um we shall see that...
00:10:46
Speaker
handful of animals have the characteristics around which which are adaptable to man, and all the rest are destined to be eradicated off the face of the earth. you know And that was a very sort of Christian Darwinian, I mean, Christian, well, kind of social Darwinism kind of

Domestication and Farming Practices in History

00:11:04
Speaker
thing. you know that like We were, of course, atop the pyramid, and you know we had a right to get rid of everything else. Oh, yeah, they I think he calls ah wildlife useless consumption of feed crops or something like that. Anyway, as for fish, you know, we're both ahead and behind with respect to how much we've destroyed them versus how much we're able to farm them.
00:11:27
Speaker
um The good news about fish is that we didn't entirely obliterate them like we did, say, North American bison. You know, obviously bison are not extinct, but for intents and purposes, as a reliable food source, source they no longer exist. Yeah.
00:11:42
Speaker
But fish farming um comes along really around the time as we start to kind of see stressors in wild marine fish populations. And of course, there are exceptions to that. The very, very first fish farmers go back 3,000 years.
00:12:00
Speaker
ah china ah was is largely credited with being the first fish farmers. And they they used a kind of a polyculture in their ponds where they would have a mixed crop of silkworms, um which would be feeding off of melt mulberry trees. Their casings would fall into the water. Those would be eaten by carp, who in turn would poop into the water and that would fertilize a rice crop and a grass crop, which fed ducks. So you had all of these things working in concert and carp was one element of that. So that was the very, very first fish farming that we have record of. And there's actually a manual from 3,000 years ago, and and not the first aquaculture manual.
00:12:42
Speaker
As far as modern fish farming, is and and asia Asian cultures have been farming things like carp for a pretty long time. Modern fish farming really starts to a get a go um with probably salmon is the sort of biggest ah fish that really gets farmed. and And that kind of comes out, it's not altogether in Four Fish, my in my book Four Fish, but it kind of comes out of early attempts to stock supplement wild populations. um
00:13:15
Speaker
If you ever, salmon salmon and trout have this one feature that make them particularly adaptable to act to to farming, to aquaculture. If you ever look at a salmon egg, um like if you if you've ever gone to a Japanese restaurant had ikura sushi, which is just a pile of salmon eggs over rice wrapped in a piece of seaweed,
00:13:35
Speaker
That large egg is atypical for the way that fish reproduce. The reason the egg is so big is because salmon will lay them in the fall. Those eggs will sit and develop over the winter and then hatch out in the spring. And then when...
00:13:50
Speaker
the fish hatch out, there's not a lot of nutrients in the water, so the salmon actually live off of the yolk sac for a time and then can start feeding. What that means is that a salmon can, in a farmed environment, transition directly onto industrial feed pellets, whereas other fish which hatch out of a really tiny egg actually need live feed, and that's a good deal more complicated, and we can discuss that if you like as well. But anyway, so salmon, salmon trout, we saw...
00:14:19
Speaker
those populations get super stressed ah in the 19th century um when industrial development dammed a bunch of rivers. We lost salmon runs right and left. Trout are very dependent on clean, pure water. We lost those. So early on,
00:14:35
Speaker
Fisheries people learned to grow trout and salmon in a hatchery, in what was then probably not called a hatchery. So that initial technology was developed there. And then later on, when people thought, huh, you know mean what if we actually did this for food and not for sport?
00:14:54
Speaker
um And there are a couple of brothers out ah in Norway who are credited as one of the creators of the first commercial salmon farm. There was sort of parallel stuff going on in Scotland. and um We're talking like 50s, 40s, 50s kind of thing.
00:15:07
Speaker
um And then um one of the things that really made it kind of go... ah boom was that um ah a Norwegian scientist named Trigva Gedram, who had actually been um an exchange student at at Ohio State University, and he—oh, sorry, I think it was Iowa State. um So he um observed— ah the selective breeding practices that were being developed in America at the time with cattle and so forth.
00:15:38
Speaker
And he suddenly realized, wow, you know, cattle only have one or two offspring per year. That's a pretty slow rate of improvement if you're trying to do selective breeding.
00:15:49
Speaker
Salmon have you know thousands of eggs, and so you can select um you see you and and you you can get a new crop of eggs every couple of years, um tons of variation. And what Gidram did is that he found he went through 40 different salmon rivers in Norway years.
00:16:08
Speaker
which had different characteristics, set up a breeding lab and was able to select from those 40 different gene pools the fastest growing fish. And it was a super, super successful project, at least from a productivity standpoint.
00:16:21
Speaker
And they were able to double the growth rate of farmed salmon, I think, within a decade or something like that. And the improvements just kept coming and coming and coming. So once you have... You know, and this is why people sometimes say that, you know, the Atlantic salmon, its it's it's um scientific name is Salmosalar. But we're now 15, 20, 30 generations into selective breeding program. So that now some people joke that it's really Salmo domesticus at this point. It's almost a separate species. So salmon was super, that was a super productive crop. Shrimp was another part of what sometimes people called the blue revolution, which happened um in the 50s, 60s, 70s. Remember, there was the green revolution and then people who were interested in improving the productivity of marine species kind of dubbed it the blue revolution. So there were a lot of different technologies involved, maybe too many to list.
00:17:11
Speaker
um like weird shit like ah shrimp it was found out with ah tiger prawns that if you clipped off one of their eye stalks for whatever reason it made them bare eggs Very strange.
00:17:25
Speaker
Yeah. So it's like, you know, it's like you're dealing with a whole weird, you know, space, space odyssey of creatures that we just sort of figured out, you know, and each creature kind of has their granddaddy who figured out the biology and figured out the breeding program.
00:17:41
Speaker
um It's very expensive to launch an aquaculture program. um But once you've nailed it, um then it goes gangbusters. And that's when it becomes problematic to start a new farm because the price just goes down and down and down. And um you know anybody can do it once once the code has been broken.
00:18:00
Speaker
I think you you write that salmon in many ways was an accident of history, an accident of biology with those large eggs. And that now it seems that we're in a in a point of history where the the whole breadth of fish farming has been opened up to us. you could You could try to tackle just about anything, but certain fish make a lot more sense to try to farm than other ones. Salmon may be in the middle somewhere. tuna are probably, it sounds like one of the least sensible to farm, at least from ah an economics, a feed feed conversion ratio perspective. Can you give us a sense for what where this seems to be going when we started out, let's say in the 50s or so with a wild west of we could try just about anything and now over time narrowing it down to figuring out which ones actually make sense? Yeah. Well, so another big break breakthrough was ah with Mediterranean fish. um And in my book, I i cite the um European sea bass, also known as the branzino,
00:19:09
Speaker
um ah as as one of the key fish. That was a little bit of an elision on my part because the real the work was happening simultaneously on European sea bass, something called a red porgy in Japan, and then the orato, which is another kind of sea bream. in the Mediterranean. But all three of those fish depended on the development of live feed, live, almost microscopic feed. um And that was kind of worked out in the 60s and 70s, where they learned that you could take um a very small organism called a rotifer, which in carb aquaculture ponds would clog up the intake ah pipes um and it was a nuisance species. But then they suddenly realized, well,
00:19:52
Speaker
You can take those rutifers, because keep in mind, wild fish, when they're born, um they are feeding off of plankton. um And they'll feed up plankton on different sizes. So rutifers are small enough for the very, very early stages of fish development. You can pack those rutifers full of lipids and all kinds of things that make them the perfect feed for fish.
00:20:15
Speaker
Once they've then had their fellow rotifers and got a little bigger, the next step is something called an artemia, which surprisingly enough comes from our Great Salt Lake um in Utah. um I had never known this. um I remember I was doing a story about codfish aquaculture, and I said, well, what do you feed them after the rotifers? Oh, we feed them artemia. And I said, no.
00:20:36
Speaker
Where do those come from? this oh They come from the Great Salt Lake. and I said, oh, if it's interesting, I didn't know Norway had a Great Salt Lake. said, no, you're Great Salt Lake. and um and In fact, the Great Salt Lake was actually an engine for all of the world's aquaculture. Interestingly, Artemia also might have ended up um in the homes of your children as sea monkeys. um they Because they they they hatch not out of an egg, but out of of a cyst that is so durable, you can fly it into space, you can bury it underground, you can freeze it, you can bake it, and it will still hatch out.
00:21:11
Speaker
um And so that same quality that allowed them to mail them to children all around the world and convince them that they were sea monkeys... means that you can mass mail them to aquaculture farms around the world. And in fact, the Great Salt Lake worked out, the the industry worked out the harvesting techniques, and it was ah almost a monopoly on that until other countries started to realize that Salt lakes, you know, occur around the world and that they all have their own Artemia species. So I actually did a story recently for Hawkeye magazine where I went to, ah I went actually observed the Artemia fishery, pretty interesting fishery because that's apparently a lot of Alaska salmon fishermen who like to ski during the off season. And so they go, they go to Utah and they take it easy. It's very easy fishing. Like, you know, you're not, you're not even harvesting the shrimp themselves. You're just skimming the cysts off the surface of the water.
00:22:06
Speaker
And it's very lucrative. um So anyway, I digress. That thing opened up a whole box of fish that we could exploit um ah on the farm. We could do snapper. We could do grouper. ah We could do um mahi-mahi. and Many, many fish were able were able to do so then...
00:22:25
Speaker
The next step is to figure out, well, what then works from an economic point of view? What grows fast? What's disease resistant? What can take well to so to high stocking densities? ah You know, one fantasy, mahi-mahi grow very, very quickly. i don't know if you've ever seen a mahi-mahi. It's also called dolphin fish, but it's just very beautiful.
00:22:44
Speaker
But it has a very, you know, white, lean, clean filet. And people are like, this is perfect. But they are so cannibalistic that if you put about a bunch of mahi-mahi together, they'll just go whoop, whoop. And finally, you just get one big fat mahi-mahi that is eating every other mahi-mahi in the tank. So, you know, that's no-go zone, right? I mean, osma orri many fish are cannibalistic given the choice, but mahi-mahi have an exceptionally high desire to eat themselves.
00:23:11
Speaker
um so So now, yeah, now it becomes questions like that you must encounter. I mean, I'm sure on your show you've had people who have talked about you know feed efficiency in cattle and you know probably there's a fair amount of you know monkeying around with DNA right now. to How can we get a pig that you know puts on weight? Look at the chicken, like the modern chicken that, you know what is it, five weeks to get a broiler or that? My main being in commercial, I'm thinking about six weeks is is the number that sticks in my head. Yeah.
00:23:40
Speaker
So, I mean, that's incredible. I mean, that beats actually any fish, to tell you the truth. um But there are those metrics that are just baked into DNA and biology, and and there's some fish that work and some fish that don't. So now I think Now that we've mastered a lot of these technologies, we're trying to figure out, well, what does the market, what can the market bear?
00:23:58
Speaker
um Now that we can grow anything, you know, people are, there's a huge um and growing industry for sturgeon, but so sturgeon take anywhere from seven to 10 years to reach maturity. Um,
00:24:11
Speaker
Mostly they're being grown for caviar. But then what do you do with this 100 or 200 pound fish after you've harvested the caviar? I mean, people are trying to sell the meat. It's actually quite tasty, ah but there's no inherent...
00:24:25
Speaker
you know, knowledge. There's existing market for a sturgeon meat. Exactly. not a traditional thing. Exactly. And so you talk about the chicken can can grow and and come to to slaughter weight faster than than fish.
00:24:39
Speaker
But one of the things that you raise in the book is that actually the feed efficiency of certain fish can be, can be almost be a one-to-one or in some cases, potentially even better than a one-to-one. And um that was one of the things that that surprised me because going into the book, I had a quite negative perspective on, on fish farming because of the the ecological downsides of it. Um, um,
00:25:04
Speaker
But ah towards the end, I saw the case for, look, if we're outstripping our capacity to continue harvesting wild fisheries, and in some of these cases, these fish are actually very, very efficient at converting feed into human food and and meat. This might actually be be possible to do this very well in a way that maybe is better than than some of this land-based farming.
00:25:34
Speaker
in some cases. um And I'm sure that there are ways to ah to negate some of the environmental impacts through better better planning, better procedures around that. So can you talk a little bit to your perspective now on on fish farming, the ecological, but then also the the efficiency side of things and and maybe what can be done, what should be done to to make this a better deal for for the public?
00:26:05
Speaker
Yeah, well, first of all, you know anyone who kind of fancies themselves a conservationist, to take a pro-aquaculture point of view is pretty controversial. um For whatever reason, the world's NGOs have sort of sharpened their knives against aquaculture. And it's not an altogether rational process by which they've come to those conclusions.
00:26:28
Speaker
I think in the early days of salmon farming, for example, ah farmers were careless. They overstocked their pens. They didn't rotate their crops. They caused algal blooms.
00:26:39
Speaker
There's escapes of already selectively bred animals that could potentially destroy the genetic integrity of the fish with which they're cohabitating, the wild fish. So there's many problems, but it's not um frozen in time. Science develops and people come up with solutions. So um just going back to the sort of metrics, there are some essential arguments for aquaculture, which is, you know, first of all, the fish float.
00:27:05
Speaker
um The energy that land animals put into just standing against gravity for a fish can be put into making meat if you if you if you put them in the right conditions.
00:27:18
Speaker
um Fish are cold-blooded, um which means that if they're in the right temperature water, they don't have to put energy towards um homeostasis, um which land animals have to do. So that right there, you have two really strong arguments for the fact that fish could potentially be more feed-efficient.
00:27:37
Speaker
um The other thing to think about is is space.

Current State of Global Aquaculture

00:27:40
Speaker
And, um you know, land, as we mentioned earlier, land animals are in two dimensions, more or less. Fish are in three. So there's a guy named Michael Rubino who was Noah's main aquaculture guy, and he would always argue that, you know, there's always a lot of ah anger about aquaculture wherever um salmon in particular occupy similar water as wild salmon. So he would, he right around the time that there was lot controversy about salmon farming and Puget Sound, he would make the point that, you know, a very small portion of
00:28:14
Speaker
Puget Sound were turned over to aquaculture would probably meet a large part of America's seafood needs. But we don't have that kind of ambition and we don't have that kind of... i don't know. There's a lot of NIMBY stuff around that. um you know It's important to note that the United States is way below the level of other nations that do fish farming. We produce I don't know. it's It's like less than half a million metric tons of seafood farmed.
00:28:42
Speaker
um ah China produces 75 million metric tons. So it's like we're just a dot. where' I think we're 20th in the world. We're behind countries like Myanmar. And that's in terms of total tons. So, you know, we're really not doing it. Same time, Americans love love farmed seafood. um You know, I often think about, did you ever see the movie Casablanca?
00:29:02
Speaker
ah Well, your listeners will have. And there's ah you know there's a in Casablanca where Casablanca takes place in Nazi-occupied Morocco, and um there's a sort of Vichy French government there. And um Rick, this American, has this cafe called Rick's Cafe, and ah And one of the sort of French Vichy puppets shuts down Rick's casino.
00:29:30
Speaker
And Rick says, who's played by Humphrey Bogart, he says, Louie, what are you doing? are you shutting me down? He says, I'm shocked, shocked to see there's gambling going on in this establishment. And just as he says, that's the croupier, comes up from the roulette wheel and he hands to Louie a bunch of banknotes. He goes, you're winning, sir. He goes, oh, thank you very much. And he puts it in his pocket. That to me is the American attitude towards aquaculture. Shock, shock that there's aquaculture.
00:29:52
Speaker
But meanwhile, the number the number one and number two most consumed seafoods in America are shrimp and salmon. And majority of those, vast majority of that is farmed.
00:30:03
Speaker
And we seem to eat eat it with abandon. We eat more farmed salmon total as a country than any other country on earth. Okay, wow. But a lot of that, it sounds, is not produced in the United States or in U.S. waters. For salmon, we're talking Chile, Norway, increasingly places in the southern hemisphere like Tasmania, um Canada to some degree farms a fair amount of salmon. But yeah, we don't we don't want to farm it, but we want to eat it.
00:30:32
Speaker
Yeah, that sounds about right. um i mean it's like you know it's like america outsources so much of its dirty business to other countries um and a culture is one of them so this really highlights the what seems to be one of the main challenges of fisheries management and that And this is where the the land side and the ocean side really diverge. Until now, we've been talking about a lot of the parallels, things that are similar, but on different timelines. But here's where they really diverge is that land is, for the most part, private.
00:31:06
Speaker
you You have private ownership of land and you can do more or less what you want with it under certain guidelines. Whereas oceans, our seas, are are ah are public. Those are public entities, public spaces,
00:31:21
Speaker
And they really require thoughtful, collaborative management. um the But it's a very and challenging very challenging environment. You can't see what's going on. ah the Everything is literally fluid and fluid. Fish that maybe start and spawn in one place might travel hundreds or thousands of miles to another place. and It really requires this complex collaboration.
00:31:46
Speaker
it sounds like we have learned quite a bit over the last, let's 100 years about how to do thoughtful fisheries management, how we've probably advanced the science of fisheries management a lot over that time. Um, we've seen we've seen the rise of aquaculture and, um, and are probably thinking through much more cautiously, or we have a lot more data with which to be able to make decisions around aquaculture and other fisheries. Uh, so can you give us, give us, uh, uh, just an overview of where we're at in terms of the management of fisheries
00:32:22
Speaker
And where you see us going forward and maybe maybe what are your the key things that you want to you want us to do or you want to see happen?
00:32:33
Speaker
Yeah. Well, so, you know, as I was recently interviewing, doing a live interview with the former head of NOAA, Jane Lubchenco, and she made the point that um counting county of fish is just like counting trees, except um you can't see these trees and they move.
00:32:49
Speaker
you know so Otherwise, they're exactly the same. exactly Exactly the same. So it's very complicated. And, you know, a lot of people don't realize that when we do stock assessments, for example, of wild fish populations,
00:33:00
Speaker
We don't count every single fish. You know you you sample around an area, um and there are then there's mathematical modeling to tell you what you think what they call the spawning stock biomass is to determine how much fish are out there and how much you can take.
00:33:19
Speaker
um Fish work a little bit like a bank account in that um you are allowed to take the interest, but you do not want to take the principal.

Fisheries Management and Policy Changes

00:33:29
Speaker
And figuring out what's the principle and what's the interest has been the great challenge of fisheries management.
00:33:36
Speaker
Within highly politicized context, right? So in many fishery management bodies, there's a scientific committee, but then there's a sort of decision-making executive committee. And oftentimes, up until fairly recent memory, the scientists could do all the modeling they wanted.
00:33:53
Speaker
ah But then if the executive committee said, you know what? Japan wants 100,000 more pounds of big-eye tuna. We're just going to let them have it. That busts the model.
00:34:05
Speaker
So I think we're seeing more and more adherence to what scientific committees are saying. um The recovery of bluefin tuna, which is not in four fish, but bluefin tuna have made a remarkable recovery in the last five years. And that's largely been because the scientific advice is being heeded finally.
00:34:27
Speaker
And the modeling is getting better and AI is getting better. You know, all the smartness of computers um and math makes fisheries management better and better. Drone technology. There's even an AI company that um called On Deck. It's a sort of startup where they mount a camera on the bridge of a boat and it will literally scan every fish that's going in and tell you how big it was, what species it was,
00:34:52
Speaker
So think about that fisheries monitors. Fisheries monitoring is one of the most dangerous and unpleasant jobs there are. And often fisheries monitors are often killed and dumped overboard. um Whereas if you could have an AI ah monitoring system, i don't think nobody's going to really complain if the job of fisheries monitor is eliminated and replaced by electronics. That's one job I think that it would be fine if it went away, if we had an adequate um mechanical solution.
00:35:22
Speaker
um Anyway, so yeah, so there are a lot of moving parts, um but also... um It requires a fairly deep institutional knowledge and knowing what happened before and but in order to be able to model what's going to happen in the future.
00:35:39
Speaker
And unfortunately, um the present administration has really run roughshod over the fisheries management process. And I spent a lot of times over last month or so, i've been writing an op-ed called Making America Fishless Again. um And it kind of harkens back to the time which we spoke about at the top of the interview when you know foreign fleets were catching all of our fish and you know not a lot of attention was being paid to sustainability. um Now, we've huge amounts of NOAA staff, National Marine Fisheries staff, have been
00:36:14
Speaker
offered early retirement, have been fired, um have been furloughed, um have been, had their travel ah budgets cut? You know, how do you, how do you voice what America wants in terms of tuna fisheries if you can't travel to, say, Barcelona, where the um ah International kind of ah Convention on the Conservation of Atlantic Tunas meets? So if you can't even go to the meeting, how are you going to even register your science?
00:36:43
Speaker
um So, yeah, so, I mean, I think... You know, the doge situation was really bad for fisheries. You know, and i'm just today, you know, they went ran roughshod over the National Weather Service. Wouldn't think, who needs weather prediction more than anyone else?
00:36:59
Speaker
Fishermen? Like, do you really want to go out in, you know, heavy seas if you don't know what's coming the next day? And I just saw recently during the um confirmation or hearing of a proposed head of NOAA that he wants to hire back all the people to the National Weather Service. So I i just think like, um you know, an administration that thinks short term, that doesn't have a vision, that doesn't respect science, can't really be very good for fisheries in the future. And, you know, the hope that we can have is that the administration will have learned its lesson with the National Weather Service and so forth. And we'll step back and say, you know what, let the scientists be scientists. Yeah.
00:37:38
Speaker
Yeah. It really seems that the the key here is long-term management. We need long-term thoughtful management of um of this resource that is is fundamentally challenging to manage. and um And if you're someone who thinks mostly short-term about short-term gains, about playing a game ah where it's a zero-sum game or whether you win or someone else wins, but you have to be the one to win,
00:38:07
Speaker
Um, that's not, it's just not good for us in the longterm. And that's what I faced all the time in, uh, in agriculture, in tree planting, and needing to think, uh, many, many decades, if not generations out. and Um, and unfortunately many people don't have that, that kind of perspective, whether it's, whether it's, uh, the administration or the public that, um, that is supportive of actions taken, um, that are, that are too short term in their perspectives.
00:38:37
Speaker
Yeah. And also, you know you have to, you know, it's like, I'm sure you run into this when you're talking with farmers and stuff like that. And, you know, I do a certain amount of agricultural reporting as well. And, you know, you, you know, in certain parts of the country, you don't mention climate change. You just say temperature rising or something like that. You know, it's a cyclical thing. But You know, call it what you will, but fish are on the move.
00:38:59
Speaker
And, you know, when I was a kid, you never saw black sea bass in Maine. In fact, you barely saw them north of New York City. um Now, Maine lobstermen are catching sea bass, black sea bass in their traps. And because Maine doesn't have um a quota for a black sea bass or an appreciable quota of what is a coastally shared resource,
00:39:24
Speaker
um They can't really do anything with that. And meanwhile, their lobsters are moving north into Canada. So anyone, in addition to that sort of long-term planning lens that ah good fisheries managers need to have, they have to have a climate lens. They have to understand what's going to survive, what's going to migrate, where are they going to migrate, how how can we make our laws dynamic? And if you're stuck into this straitjacket that just says a whole suite of scientific research, were just we just can't acknowledge that.
00:39:54
Speaker
um It makes things difficult. Yeah, yeah it's it's too late at that point if you haven't been heeding the the warnings early on. In order to finish on less of a downer, are there any any things that you would like to share as updates from your book? It has been over 15 years since you wrote the book. I'm curious whether there are significant updates. Yeah.
00:40:17
Speaker
And particularly if there's if there's things that you are more optimistic about since the writing of the book. You mentioned the recovery of of certain tuna. I wonder if there's any others. Well, I think, you know, we're seeing the fruition of um changes to the Magnuson-Stevens Act, which mandated the rebuilding of all American fisheries by a certain date. And we've crossed that time frame. That timeline has happened. And I think something like 30 different commercial species have been rebuilt in American waters. So, you know, I think—
00:40:49
Speaker
collapsed um and now are we're overfish you know in in fisheries we speak of fish that are overfished and we speak of fisheries where overfishing is occurring so you know they're their one is a moving thing and one is a static thing but um in each case um one of the key rules there was ah an amendment made to magazine and stevens called the sustainable fisheries act in ninety ninety six And it was kind of hammered out in part by my friend Carl Safina, who really stuck it to the managers and said, you know what?
00:41:19
Speaker
we can't just have these vague rebuilding timelines. We need an actual date by which we want these fisheries rebuilt. um Because people, you know, politicians will kick stuff down the road. You've seen it with the farm bill. You know, are we ever going to get a new farm bill? I don't know. um so um So Carl and others who worked on that project really put those deadlines in place and they had actually real things, real numbers. um And those targets have largely been hit. Not for everything, you know, Atlanta COD is still...
00:41:48
Speaker
pretty much on the ropes. And I think that's actually a climate thing as much as, it I mean, it was an it is an overfishing thing, but climate is not doing codfish any favors. um So I think that's pretty positive. um I think in this country, um while we have not embraced finfish aquaculture, we have embraced shellfish aquaculture. So clams, mussels, oysters, seaweed, that went from a very minimal industry to significant now. um And um one thing I really always like to quote is there's a shellfish grower in Maine who says, um shellfish growing is the economic argument.
00:42:25
Speaker
um for clean water. Because you can't have you can't have clams, mussels, and oysters if the water isn't clean. Clean water doesn't argue for itself. You know, this country in particular always needs an economic argument for it. So to me, that's ah such a win-win to have an industry that mandates clean water and that will actually stand up for clean water. So the growth of shellfish industry And it creates more clean water. Exactly. So I think, you know, that is a super, super positive that has happened since. I mean, it was sort of brewing as forefish was coming out, but it's really taken off. And I think, you know, everyone everywhere is seeing like the the oyster specialty, you know, oysters on the half shell are back. Like that was not a thing for a very long time because, you know, you're going to eat something raw. It better have been sitting in clean water.
00:43:11
Speaker
Um, but, So I think that's a super positive thing. I think the win at Bristol Bay and saving that fishery for the moment was a really big win. um Other things, though, have cropped up. You know, I don't want to leave on a downer, but I think, you know, the other thing that we need to think about is how much are we outsourcing our bad desires, our worst desires to other countries, right? We still want cheap fish.
00:43:35
Speaker
And so the rise of sea slavery has been a really big deal, um which I don't think we have time to get into it. um You know, so illegal fishing is still out there. So while while I think things are much, much better in the United States,
00:43:48
Speaker
things often are much worse abroad. And because we use foreign fisheries and foreign aquaculture as a kind of release valve to relieve economic ah pressure on the cost of fish, um you know, as, as one indie fish guy says to me, commercial guy says to me, ah good fish isn't cheap and cheap fish isn't good.
00:44:10
Speaker
um And so that's, that's, that's the kind of thing, you know, Um, and maybe people are getting a little bit more open to eating more different kinds of fish and, and understanding the, the, the treasure that we have in American fisheries. So I think that's sort of maybe improved.
00:44:26
Speaker
Um, salmon, unfortunately, overall, is not improving. I mean, Alaskan salmon seem to be doing okay, although, although again, climate is affecting things.
00:44:37
Speaker
um In the Atlantic, I mean, I don't think, I think that the days of Atlantic salmon, wild Atlantic salmon are numbered. um So, yeah, so it's a mixed bag, but there are definitely some good things that have happened. Mm-hmm.
00:44:50
Speaker
Well, Paul, thank you so much for for taking this time and sharing this broad history. And I can't recommend highly enough your books. And if people if people are a sparked by this conversation, that they should go to your books first to Four Fish, which is a lot of what we discussed today, um but also to your other books as well. And fantastically written, by the way. I listened to the audiobook version.
00:45:18
Speaker
of four fish while i was actually going up to an aquaculture conference and the person i was driving along with uh quite a few moments during the conference or during the the audiobook we had to pause it and we said wow that was something i'd never never thought of before that was a complete new revelation of of just how how the world works how fisheries work, how we got to be where we are today. So if that's at all at all of interest to folks who are listening, i would highly recommend reading those books.
00:45:50
Speaker
Thank you. Thank you. Well, it was a long time ago, but it's nice to know that it's still swimming. yes Yes, indeed. Thank you very much, Paul. My great pleasure, Austin. Thanks for having me.
00:46:02
Speaker
Agrarian Futures is produced by Alexander Miller, who also wrote our theme song. If you enjoyed this episode, please like, subscribe, and leave us a comment on your podcast app of choice.
00:46:12
Speaker
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00:46:29
Speaker
quite a few moments during the kind or during the the audio book, we had to pause and we said, wow, that was something I'd never, never thought of before. That was a complete new revelation of of just how how the world works, how fisheries work, how we got to be where we are today. so