Would you be surprised to hear that your favorite shoe brand is neither family-owned nor as punk as it portrays itself to be?
Did you know that wealth inequality and shoes are directly connected? 

Could your latest shoe purchase be subsidizing lobbying efforts to fight a rise in the minimum wage or reduce taxes for the wealthiest people?

Amanda is joined by Ariel, the founder of Cobbled Goods [https://cobbledgoods.com/] to talk about how shoes, wealth inequality, and politics are entangled.  He will introduce us to his Billionaire Boycott List. [https://cobbledgoods.com/billionaire-boycott-list-for-footwear/]  In this episode, we will also cover the following topics:

 * The environmental and ethical impacts of shoe production
 * Common greenwashing tropes used by the shoe industry
 * Who really owns a lot of the shoe companies that we might think of "heritage" brands or "countercultural"
 * How you can make better decisions when shopping for a new pair of shoes
 * And how where, when, and how often you shop are political decisions!

And guess what? Ariel has a reading list for you:

Wealth Supremacy: How the Extractive Economy and the Biased Rules of Capitalism Drive Today’s Crises [https://32aad473.streaklinks.com/CbUlamulpXPXLF0sQwAE8DEi/https%3A%2F%2Fmarjoriekelly.org%2Fwealthsupremacy%2F]

One of my favourite books, written by Marjorie Kelly. She really has her finger on the heart of the issue. I’d recommend listeners start by checking out her podcast interviews. I also have to add my first encounter with her work, which rocked my world — The Architecture of Enterprise: Redesigning Ownership for a Great Transition [https://32aad473.streaklinks.com/CbUlaHjg4AShIvuNhAhL8E9p/https%3A%2F%2Fgreattransition.org%2Farchives%2Fperspectives%2FPerspective_Architecture_of_Enterprise.pdf].



Foot Work: What Your Shoes Tell You About Globalisation [https://32aad473.streaklinks.com/CbUlaHTaWmPA0V4BFAQm841r/https%3A%2F%2Ftansyhoskins.org%2Fbooks%2F%23%3A%7E%3Atext%3DFOOT%2520WORK%2520%252D%2520WHAT%2520YOUR%2520SHOES%2520TELL%2520YOU%2520ABOUT%2520GLOBALISATION]

An incredible first-person look into shoe production around the world. Tansy Hoskins also has a great newsletter [https://32aad473.streaklinks.com/CbUlaHTFxc6nenYreQIdiMCM/https%3A%2F%2Ftansyhoskins.org%2Fsubscribe%2F].



Imagining a Decentralised Footwear Industry at the Global Fashioning Assembly [https://32aad473.streaklinks.com/CbUlaHXwsFoFDAdnYwN06RfO/https%3A%2F%2Fglobalfashioningassembly.com%2F2024%2F10%2F04%2Fcobbled-goods-imagining-a-decentralised-footwear-industry-gfa24%2F]

I didn’t mention this but I hosted a speculative fiction workshop last fall with Tansy and few other footwear founders where everyone shared their ideas on what the industry would look like in a world with big businesses. It ties in nicely with our conversation and the boycott list.



Dispatches: The truth about Nike and Adidas [https://www.channel4.com/programmes/the-truth-about-nike-and-adidas-dispatches]

The Channel 4 investigation into recycled ocean plastic. I actually confused Nike and Adidas on the episode. Both brands are covered but the ocean plastic bit was about Adidas. The original broadcast is not available on demand: But there is an article with part of the video here: https://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-10821693/Channel-4s-Dispatches-reveals-greenwashing-trainer-brands.html 



License to Gree [https://32aad473.streaklinks.com/CbUlaHPSEhD-4RLi7Qi7aDeQ/https%3A%2F%2Fchangingmarkets.org%2Freport%2Ftake-back-trickery-an-investigation-into-clothing-take-back-schemes%2F]

Episode 237: Billionaire Boycott List, with Ariel of Cobbled Goods

In this episode, Amanda explores and explains a few different topics that are “ripped from the headlines,” including some news submitted from listeners:

 * A recap of Amanda's day at the United Nations Fashion and Lifestyle Network [https://sdgs.un.org/partnerships/action-networks/fashion-and-lifestyle-network] Annual Meeting
 * An update on the Fashion Act [https://www.thefashionact.org/]
 * How boycotts are affecting Target (and their nightmare 2025 Pride collection) [https://www.reddit.com/r/Target/comments/1kw8aot/new_pride_collection/]
 * What Joann has in common with Toys R US, Bed Bath and Beyond, and Nasty Gal
 * Why Torrid is closing a ton of stores [https://www.retaildive.com/news/torrid-closing-180-stores-30-percent-fleet-digital-first/750041/] (and why this is a problem)

And so much more!

JOIN AMANDA FOR THE CLOTHESHORSE BIRTHDAY CRAFTERNOON ON JULY 20! [https://thethirdplace.is/event/clotheshorse-bday-crafternoon]

Additional Reading:
"Dear Fashion CEOs, Stop Undermining Climate Action," [https://www.businessoffashion.com/opinions/sustainability/fashion-ceos-lobbying-undermining-climate-action/]Maxine Bédat, Business of Fashion.
"Target sales fall sharply in 1st quarter and retailer warns they will slip for all of 2025," [https://www.cbsnews.com/minnesota/news/target-sales-fall-sharply-1st-quarter-2025/] CBS News.
"Target Moves Pride Merchandise Aside To Spotlight Father’s Day And July 4th Holidays," [https://www.forbes.com/sites/pamdanziger/2025/06/07/target-moves-pride-merchandise-aside-to-spotlight-fathers-day-and-july-4th-holidays/]Pamela N. Danziger, Forbes.
"'Cowardcore:' Everyone Is Noticing The Same Thing About Target's Pride Merch," [https://www.huffpost.com/entry/targets-lackluster-pride-merch_l_683f2e29e4b0908fdbe0b611]Brittany Wong, HuffPost.
"Nervous Corporate Sponsors Retreat From New York Pride," [https://www.nytimes.com/2025/05/21/nyregion/nyc-pride-sponsors-trump-tariffs.html] Liam Stack, The New York Times.
"Michaels acquires Joann brand: What it means for store inventories," [https://finance.yahoo.com/news/michaels-acquires-joann-brand-means-141804379.html] Lori Comstock, USA Today Network.

Get your Clotheshorse merch here: https://clotheshorsepodcast.com/shop/

If you want to share your opinion/additional thoughts on the subjects we cover in each episode, feel free to email, whether it’s a typed out message or an audio recording:  amanda@clotheshorse.world

Did you enjoy this episode? Consider "buying me a coffee" via Ko-fi: ko-fi.com/clotheshorse [https://ko-fi.com/clotheshorse]

Clotheshorse is brought to you with support from the following sustainable small businesses:

Slow Fashion Academy is a size-inclusive sewing and patternmaking studio based in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. Designer and fashion professor Ruby Gertz teaches workshops for hobbyists and aspiring designers, so that anyone can learn the foundational skills of making, mending, and altering their own clothes. Ruby also provides professional design and patternmaking services to emerging slow fashion brands, and occasionally takes commissions for custom garments and costume pieces. She has also released several PDF sewing patterns for original designs under her brands Spokes & Stitches, and Starling Petite Plus. Check the schedule for upcoming workshops, download PDF sewing patterns, and learn about additional sewing and design services at www.slowfashion.academy [http://www.slowfashion.academy/].


The Pewter Thimble Is there a little bit of Italy in your soul? Are you an enthusiast of pr

Episode 236: Ripped From the Headlines...

This week you are going to meet Molly and Jane of Content Queen [https://contentqueenzine.com/], a two-person Bay Area-based zine publisher. And we are going to talk about all kinds of very hot topics (including literally Hot Topic):



 * Why do Jane and Molly make physical zines rather than virtual/online content in 2025? The answer is important and might get you thinking…
 * How has the kind of “content” we consume (especially the content we READ) changed in the social media era?
 * Two of Content Queen’s zines that are explicitly fashion-related:  Stressful, Awkward, Envied: ‘90s and ‘00s Brands From Those Who Wore the Clothes, Worked the Registers, and Modeled for the Catalogs AND Wendy’s World, “an immersion into the early-’90s downtown New York world of the ultimate cult indie fashion label, Built by Wendy.”



Along the way Molly and Jane will tell us what it’s like to vend at a zine fair in 2025 (and why it’s different than it used to be).  And we’ll wrap it all up by making our trend predictions.  Amanda gets things started with explaining why something as simple as reading is a radical act of resistance in 2025 (and why we need to protect books and libraries).


Go order and read Molly and Jane's zines so we can talk about them: contentqueenzine.com [https://contentqueenzine.com/]
Find them on IG: @contentqueenzine [https://www.instagram.com/contentqueenzine/]
JOIN AMANDA FOR THE CLOTHESHORSE BIRTHDAY CRAFTERNOON ON JULY 20! [https://thethirdplace.is/event/clotheshorse-bday-crafternoon]


Additional reading:
"It’s so boring’: Gen Z parents don’t like reading to their kids - and educators are worried," [https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2025/jun/02/gen-z-parents-reading-kids] Alaina Demopoulos, The Guardian.
"The Elite College Students Who Can’t Read Books," [https://www.theatlantic.com/magazine/archive/2024/11/the-elite-college-students-who-cant-read-books/679945/] Rose Horowitch, The Atlantic.
Banned and Challenged Books dashboard [https://www.ala.org/bbooks], American Library Association.

Get your Clotheshorse merch here: https://clotheshorsepodcast.com/shop/

If you want to share your opinion/additional thoughts on the subjects we cover in each episode, feel free to email, whether it’s a typed out message or an audio recording:  amanda@clotheshorse.world

Did you enjoy this episode? Consider "buying me a coffee" via Ko-fi: ko-fi.com/clotheshorse [https://ko-fi.com/clotheshorse]

Clotheshorse is brought to you with support from the following sustainable small businesses:

Slow Fashion Academy is a size-inclusive sewing and patternmaking studio based in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. Designer and fashion professor Ruby Gertz teaches workshops for hobbyists and aspiring designers, so that anyone can learn the foundational skills of making, mending, and altering their own clothes. Ruby also provides professional design and patternmaking services to emerging slow fashion brands, and occasionally takes commissions for custom garments and costume pieces. She has also released several PDF sewing patterns for original designs under her brands Spokes & Stitches, and Starling Petite Plus. Check the schedule for upcoming workshops, download PDF sewing patterns, and learn about additional sewing and design services at www.slowfashion.academy [http://www.slowfashion.academy].


The Pewter Thimble Is there a little bit of Italy in your soul? Are you an enthusiast of pre-loved decor and accessories? Bring vintage Italian style — and history — into your spa

Episode 235: Reading, Writing, and Hanging out at the mall, with Jane and Molly of Content Queen

What happened to Jo-Ann (the massive fabric/craft store chain)?  In many places, it was the only game in town.  It had a captive audience.  And sewing and mending are on the rise.   So Amanda set out to find out who killed Jo-Ann.  It’s a lot more complicated than you think! In this episode we take a journey full of twists and turns:

 * Was it just private equity? And WTF is private equity anyway?
 * What do Jo-Ann and Red Lobster have in common? Unfortunately it's not Cheddar Bay Biscuits.
 * How has society's relationship with sewing changed over the last 80 years?
 * Who is Faith Popcorn and why is Amanda obsessed with her?
 * Where are the mechanized hugging booths?
 * Does anyone remember Cargo Express?
 * Where did Jo-Ann's leadership go wrong?
 * How would Amanda "save" Jo-Ann?
 * What is the future of fabric stores? And how are we all a part of it?

So many sources and so many links for this episode.

First: some suggested fabric stores from Amanda:
Firecracker Fabrics [https://www.firecrackerfabrics.com/]
L'Etoffe Fabrics [https://letoffefabrics.com/]
Nacho Ann's Fabrics
[https://www.nachoanns.com/]Make & Mend [https://makeandmendshop.com/?srsltid=AfmBOooi0KUUiyIpFSgZltYg8S2Ud5-NXjqdmoFfbDMBWGY2Amzd4wmv]

Check out Oddly Specific with Meredith Lynch [https://www.meredithlynch.com/podcast]

Sources and additional reading:
"How private equity rolled Red Lobster," [https://www.nbcnews.com/business/consumer/private-equity-rolled-red-lobster-rcna153397]Gretchen Morgenson, NBC News.
"How trend forecasting keeps the biggest brands on top," [https://www.cityam.com/how-trend-forecasting-keeps-biggest-brands-top/] Peter Firth, City AM.

"Faith Popcorn’s predictions five years later," [https://www.latimes.com/entertainment/la-et-popcorn-predicts01-2008oct01-story.html]Patrick Kevin Day, Los Angeles Times.
"The Essence of Cocooning," [https://www.latimes.com/archives/la-xpm-1987-08-07-vw-1202-story.html] Beth Ann Krier, Los Angeles Times.
"Cloth World stores sold to chain," [https://www.tampabay.com/archive/1994/10/29/cloth-world-stores-sold-to-chain/] Alan Goldstein, Tampa Bay Times.
"Fabri-Centers Agrees to Pay $3 Million to Settle Charges," [https://www.nytimes.com/1997/02/19/business/fabri-centers-agrees-to-pay-3-million-to-settle-charges.html] Leslie Eaton, The New York Times.
"Staff Said The Free Mask Kits At Jo-Ann Fabrics Are Just Scraps From The Clearance Bin," [https://www.buzzfeednews.com/article/amberjamieson/jo-ann-joann-fabric-masks-coronavirus-staff-speak-out] Amber Jamieson, Buzzfeed.
"Did private equity kill Joann fabrics?" [https://www.fastcompany.com/91287686/joann-fabrics-closing-private-equity-kill-reason-market-forces] Sam Becker, Fast Company.
"How Joann Fabrics went from a cult-favorite retail darling to a bankruptcy disaster," [https://fortune.com/2025/03/29/joann-fabrics-transformation-retail-darling-bankruptcy-disaster/]Lila Maclellan, Fortune.
"Sixty-seven years of fabrics and crafts," [https://www.cleveland.com/pdextra/2010/12/the_history_of_jo-ann_stores_i.html] Janet H. Cho, The Plain Dealer.
"Sixty Years of Serving Creativity," [http://media.corporate-ir.net/media_files/nys/jas/inforequest/JAS_Mag_60th%20Anniv_0703.pdf] Marsha McGregor.

Get your Clotheshorse merch here: https://clotheshorsepodcast.com/shop/

If you want to share your opinion/additional thoughts on the subjects we cover in each episode, feel free to email, whether it’s a typed out message or an audio recording:  amanda@clotheshorse.world

Did you enjoy this episode? Consi

Episode 234: Who killed Jo-Ann?

A better future for our planet means most people buying secondhand clothing most of the time. Right now we live in a “golden era” of shopping secondhand…if you’re the customer! But the infrastructure as it exists right now for the people doing the work of finding, repairing, cleaning, and selling secondhand clothing needs a lot of improvement.  This week, Amanda is joined by Valeria Brenner of Thryft Ship [https://thryftship.com/] to dissect how and why the current state of secondhand resale isn’t equitable for the people doing the work:

 * We will break down the reality of the fees that these platforms are charging (and how it makes running a financially sustainable business nearly impossible for secondhand resellers),
 * We will talk about how the socially ingrained expectation of free shipping makes that even more difficult, 
 * And we will discuss how this system could be better! Maybe it will get some of you thinking about new tools and systems for the secondhand economy!
 * Also, Valeria will explain why the secondhand reseller community is so amazing.

Find Thryft Ship:
IG: @thryftship [https://www.instagram.com/thryftship/]

Website: thryftship.com [https://thryftship.com/]

Read Alex's Substack (1-800-Vintage) about why she no longer calls herself a reseller [https://1800vintage.substack.com/p/dont-call-me-a-reseller]

Get your Clotheshorse merch here: https://clotheshorsepodcast.com/shop/

If you want to share your opinion/additional thoughts on the subjects we cover in each episode, feel free to email, whether it’s a typed out message or an audio recording:  amanda@clotheshorse.world

Did you enjoy this episode? Consider "buying me a coffee" via Ko-fi: ko-fi.com/clotheshorse [https://ko-fi.com/clotheshorse]

Clotheshorse is brought to you with support from the following sustainable small businesses:


The Pewter Thimble Is there a little bit of Italy in your soul? Are you an enthusiast of pre-loved decor and accessories? Bring vintage Italian style — and history — into your space with The Pewter Thimble (@thepewterthimble [https://www.instagram.com/thepewterthimble/]). We source useful and beautiful things, and mend them where needed. We also find gorgeous illustrations, and make them print-worthy. Tarot cards, tea towels and handpicked treasures, available to you from the comfort of your own home. Responsibly sourced from across Rome, lovingly renewed by fairly paid artists and artisans, with something for every budget. Discover more at thepewterthimble.com [http://thepewterthimble.com/]


St. Evens is an NYC-based vintage shop that is dedicated to bringing you those special pieces you’ll reach for again and again. More than just a store, St. Evens is dedicated to sharing the stories and history behind the garments. 10% of all sales are donated to a different charitable organization each month.  New vintage is released every Thursday at wearStEvens.com, [https://wearstevens.com/] with previews of new pieces and more brought to you on Instagram at @wear_st.evens. [https://www.instagram.com/wear_st.evens/]


Deco Denim is a startup based out of San Francisco, selling clothing and accessories that are sustainable, gender fluid, size inclusive and high quality--made to last for years to come. Deco Denim is trying to change the way you think about buying clothes. Founder Sarah Mattes wants to empower people to ask important questions like, “Where was this made? Was this garment made ethically? Is this fabric made of plastic? Can this garment be upcycled and if not, can it be recycled?” Signup at

Episode 233: Making the secondhand economy more equitable, with Valeria of Thryft Ship

Understanding what your personal style and wearing what you want to wear? AMAZING! Not only does it feel great to love your clothes, it's also an essential part of a more sustainable way of life.  In this week's episode, Amanda is joined by Marlee of Style Me Slowly [https://www.stylemeslowly.com/podcast]to talk about how to find "closet contentment."

 * Why “flattering” is kind of a myth (and puts the focus on the wrong person’s happiness)
 * The challenges of breaking up with the “rules” we have been taught about what we can and cannot wear
 * Why understanding what you really want to wear is a very important part of the slow fashion way of life.
 * Marlee’s recommended process for understanding your personal style

And so much more!

Find Marlee:
IG--@stylemeslowly [https://www.instagram.com/stylemeslowly/]
Marlee's style coaching services [https://www.instagram.com/stylemeslowly/]
Style Me Slowly podcast [https://www.stylemeslowly.com/podcast]

Amanda's letter to you:
IG [https://www.instagram.com/p/DIl7XQcukVn/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==]
Substack [https://open.substack.com/pub/clotheshorsepodcast/p/lets-talk-about-someone-really-important?r=k9ymy&utm_campaign=post&utm_medium=web&showWelcomeOnShare=false]
Tumblr [https://www.tumblr.com/clotheshorsepodcast/781178750640455680/every-meeting-i-have-had-this-week-has-started-the?source=share]

Get your Clotheshorse merch here: https://clotheshorsepodcast.com/shop/

If you want to share your opinion/additional thoughts on the subjects we cover in each episode, feel free to email, whether it’s a typed out message or an audio recording:  amanda@clotheshorse.world

Did you enjoy this episode? Consider "buying me a coffee" via Ko-fi: ko-fi.com/clotheshorse [https://ko-fi.com/clotheshorse]

Clotheshorse is brought to you with support from the following sustainable small businesses:


The Pewter Thimble Is there a little bit of Italy in your soul? Are you an enthusiast of pre-loved decor and accessories? Bring vintage Italian style — and history — into your space with The Pewter Thimble (@thepewterthimble [https://www.instagram.com/thepewterthimble/]). We source useful and beautiful things, and mend them where needed. We also find gorgeous illustrations, and make them print-worthy. Tarot cards, tea towels and handpicked treasures, available to you from the comfort of your own home. Responsibly sourced from across Rome, lovingly renewed by fairly paid artists and artisans, with something for every budget. Discover more at thepewterthimble.com [http://thepewterthimble.com/]


St. Evens is an NYC-based vintage shop that is dedicated to bringing you those special pieces you’ll reach for again and again. More than just a store, St. Evens is dedicated to sharing the stories and history behind the garments. 10% of all sales are donated to a different charitable organization each month.  New vintage is released every Thursday at wearStEvens.com, [https://wearstevens.com/] with previews of new pieces and more brought to you on Instagram at @wear_st.evens. [https://www.instagram.com/wear_st.evens/]


Deco Denim is a startup based out of San Francisco, selling clothing and accessories that are sustainable, gender fluid, size inclusive and high quality--made to last for years to come. Deco Denim is trying to change the way you think about buying clothes. Founder Sarah Mattes wants to empower people to ask important questions like, “Where was this made? Was this garment made ethically? Is this fabric made of plastic? Can this garmen

Episode 232: Wear what you want to wear, with Marlee of Style Me Slowly

Amanda is currently googling "fast home remedies for nonstop cough" with a tissue jammed in her nose, so please enjoy part four of this series from The Department about the history of secondhand shopping.  
This episode was originally released in April 2023.

From the original episode description:

Amanda + Kim end their journey through the history of secondhand shopping as a social, retail, and style trend in a decade so close, yet so far away: the 2010s.

Get all the details at thedepartment.world. [https://thedepartment.world/Secondhand-News-Part-4-The-2010s]

FROM THE DEPARTMENT: Secondhand News (the recurring and always controversial trend of secondhand fashion),Part 4:  The 2010s

Amanda's still coughing and feeling pitiful, so here's part three in a series about the history of secondhand shopping from The Department.
This episode was released in April 2023.

From the original episode description:

Secondhand shopping is having a major moment right now and it isn't without controversy. Amanda + Kim take a deep dive into the trend cycle of secondhand clothing, because it turns out secondhand fashion isn't a first time fashion trend. This episode (part three) focuses on the 2000s.

Get all the details at thedepartment.world. [https://thedepartment.world/Secondhand-News-the-recurring-and-always-controversial-trend-of-2]

FROM THE DEPARTMENT: Secondhand News (the recurring and always controversial trend of secondhand fashion), Part 3:  The 2000s

Amanda is out with the most disgusting cold this week, so here's part two of The Department's series about secondhand shopping!
This episode was originally released in April 2023.

From the original episode description:

Secondhand shopping is having a major moment right now and it isn't without controversy. Amanda + Kim take a deep dive into the trend cycle of secondhand clothing, because it turns out secondhand fashion isn't a first time fashion trend. This episode (part two) focuses on the 80s and 90s.
Get all the details at thedepartment.world. [https://thedepartment.world/Secondhand-News-Part-2-the-80s-and-90s]

FROM THE DEPARTMENT: Secondhand News (the recurring and always controversial trend of secondhand fashion), Part 2:  The 80s and 90s

Hi everyone! Dustin brought one souvenir back from his recent tour with his band American Motors [https://www.instagram.com/americanmotors.group/]: a really gross cold, which I now have the pleasure of experiencing right now.  I'm in the constant coughing/lost my voice stage of it this week, so there is no new episode of Clotheshorse.
Instead, I thought I would share a few of my favorite episodes of my kinda RIP/kinda on-hiatus podcast, The Department, in which Kim and I talked about the history of secondhand shopping. I am going to share all of them on the Clotheshorse feed this week, so check it out!

These episodes were recorded 2023, while I lived in Austin and Kim lived in LA.
Thanks for listening, and hopefully I'll be be back next week with a new episode of Clotheshorse!

Amanda

From the original episode description:

Secondhand shopping is having a major moment right now and it isn't without controversy. Amanda + Kim take a deep dive into the trend cycle of secondhand clothing, because it turns out secondhand fashion isn't a first time fashion trend. This episode (part one) focuses on the 1920s through the 1970s.
Get all the details at thedepartment.world. [https://thedepartment.world/Secondhand-News-the-recurring-and-always-controversial-trend-of]

FROM THE DEPARTMENT: Secondhand News (the recurring and always controversial trend of secondhand fashion), part 1

Host Amanda (with the help of her friends) decodes and demystifies the fashion
and retail industries, and takes on topics like consumerism, workers rights,
personal style, and why fashion is a case study in capitalism gone awry. Your
money is as powerful as your vote! "If you wear clothes, you need to listen to
Clotheshorse." --Elise "If you are human and live in the world, you need to
listen to Clotheshorse." --Individually Wrapped

amanda mccarty

Shows