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An Exploration of Sheffield's Ancient Village Suburbs with David Templeman - Ep 36
686 Plays3 years ago
Archaeology and Ale is a monthly series of talks presented by Archaeology in the City, part of the University of Sheffield Archaeology Department’s outreach programme. This month we are proud to host David Templeman speaking on "An Exploration of Sheffield's Ancient Village Suburbs
with David Templeman". This talk took place on Thursday, February 25th, 2021, online via Google Meets.
David is a retired businessman, having worked in the leisure trade most of his working life. With a lifelong interest in history, on retirement, he indulged that passion by joining Sheffield Manor Lodge initially as a guide. Since then he has become an accomplished speaker giving talks all over the country on Elizabethan history with local connotations. In 2016, he became an author when his book “Mary, Queen of Scots the Captive Queen in England 1568-87” was launched to critical acclaim. The book has now sold just under 3,000 copies and has become recognised as the definitive version of the English captivity of Mary, Queen of Scots. David is a Member of the Marie Stuart society of which he has developed close links. He is also chair of the Friends of Sheffield Manor Lodge, which has almost 400 Members, with the current Earl of Shrewsbury as their patron. Over the last few years, David has devoted his research into bringing the old Sheffield- the one prior to the 19th century back into the public domain with a number of very popular talks, none more so than the Ancient Suburbs series.
For more information about Archaeology in the City’s events and opportunities to get involved, please email [email protected] or visit our website at archinthecity.wordpress.com. You can also find us on Twitter (@archinthecity), Instagram (@archaeointhecity), or Facebook (@archinthecity).
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Transcript
Introduction and Context
00:00:00
Speaker
You're listening to the Archaeology Podcast Network.
00:00:28
Speaker
Hello everyone and welcome to Episode 36 of Archaeology Nail, a free monthly public archaeology talk brought to you by Archaeology in the City, the community outreach program from the University of Sheffield's Department of Archaeology. This month our guest speaker is David Templeman speaking about the exploration of Sheffield's ancient village suburbs.
00:00:48
Speaker
Due to current COVID restrictions, this talk is taking place online via Google Meets, so there may be some background noise or audio feedback in our recording. Please note that there's also PowerPoint available for you to browse at your leisure. Enjoy.
The Evolution of Attercliff
00:01:15
Speaker
Tonight's talk is some ancient suburbs of Sheffield, so some being the operative word. And there are just a random mix of different parts of Sheffield. Like I said, they'll all get done eventually, but not altogether in this one evening.
00:01:32
Speaker
We're going to start with Attercliff. And although, of course, it's very much an industrialized suburb, you'll get a real shot to find out just what a superb part of Sheffield this was. And it ranked alongside Sheffield in the Doomsday Book. And that's why I've actually put it on us first, because with Sheffield was Attercliff, meaning Attercliff, a small escarpment alongside the River Don.
00:02:01
Speaker
Up to the early 1800s, a pleasant country village. This was a description of it. The immediate surroundings are those of rural beauty and its scenery of hill and dale and wood and water of a most pleasing character. The clear flowing dome is well stocked with a variety of fish and on both sides of the river are large and magnificent trees. The village is studded with plantations, orchards and fruit trees overhanging the footpath in the main street.
00:02:30
Speaker
Up to the early 18th century still remained a rural community known for its orchards windmill and the large houses including the old hall, the new hall and Carlton House. These will look like these three individually. 1860 went into the industrial revolution now and in Abboten Road there was no prettier place for miles around the latter place. Fine houses, all finely wooded, made a picture difficult to match, small busy workshops.
00:02:59
Speaker
Pen and pocky knife makers, shops look small and country-like, the canal banks picturesque several forms unwaving crops. Christchurch was built in 1826 and that was of course at the cliff.
00:03:15
Speaker
and there is Christchurch and you can see the cliff directly in front of you there, directly in front of the church I should say. Now you can't see that cliff anymore but there you can see why it was called at the cliff and the River Don, people fishing in it, salmon, absolutely idyllic place to be.
00:03:35
Speaker
Christchurch was pawned in the second world war and that's why it was lost. The only record we got of a windmill is the acid lift one in actual picture records. There were four windmills in Sheffield by the way, if anybody ever finds any more than four were going to refer to them please let me know.
00:03:54
Speaker
The one was near the University, the main university, at the big roundabout there. One was up near the Coler honeymoon, and one was in North Sheffield, near Firth Park, and this one, the Old Windmower Attercliff, which is recorded in pictures.
00:04:12
Speaker
This map is about early 1900s, early 20th century, but it gives us a good idea what to look for. Before this occurs, now we're going to go down to the bottom left middle. You can see, I'll start right at the bottom left hand corner, the main Attercliff Road from the Wicker out to Sheffield, going towards Attercliff. And you'll come along there and you'll come to
00:04:36
Speaker
what we call Stanifoth Road, which leads up to Darnell. Now where that meets straight across there is a place called Oaks Green. Now that was the village green. As you can see, it's triangular in shape.
00:04:51
Speaker
They were all triangular in shapes of village greens. There were two village greens in Uttercliffe, and this was one of them. And in it, as you go up Oak screen with a cursor, you'll see a road straight to the left called Kimberley Street. And this where was the first Carlton House was just at the top there. One of the houses we are going to look at in a short while. Now, I said there was actually known for a lot of the old
00:05:21
Speaker
left around more so than the Sheffield city centre or town centre at the time. This is the bear baiting pit. Now if English heritage had been around before this was demolished then they would have certainly got a listing on it. The bear baiting pit from
00:05:37
Speaker
from the 1600s. Long gone, I'm afraid, because they didn't get saved. The old hall, dated back to 1629, I will point this out on the map last I left again when we get round to it, over the Spencer family, one of the Gentry family in Sheffield. The Royalist captured Colonel Spencer and wanted £350 up to be paid for his release in 1642, now £350.
00:06:01
Speaker
multiply that by a new room of 240. There's many, many thousands of pounds. Some of the parliamentarian soldiers actually stayed here on the eve of the siege of Sheffield Castle on the 3rd of August 1644. The hall was staying down in 1868.
Cultural and Social Transformations
00:06:19
Speaker
Remember by the name of Hold Hall Road, which I'll point out on the map when we get to it.
00:06:25
Speaker
At the Cliff Chapel was built in 1636 and that is still around today by the way. Carlton House, that first one I referred to, faced a large pleasure ground, gardens and pond at the one atop of Kimberley Street and was lived in and entertained right up to 1878. Newhall, and there's a road in At the Cliff called Newhall Road and that's obviously where it was, had a cricket ground, race
00:06:50
Speaker
source, Burlingree, Mays and Lake. Many locals would take a horse-drawn shadowbine coach to Newhall. Pleasure grounds? An idea where he'd spend a day's holiday. Gimbly Street was oaks, Green was for Carlton House. The suburb developed major communication links in the 19th century with turnpike and canal connections. Industry flush with Benjamin Huntsman, one of the first of his works in Assidut, the inventor of crucible steel, which not only changed Sheffield, but changed the world.
00:07:18
Speaker
The business shopping centre was Atalef, next to the main shopping centre in Sheffield, possibly Rival there. They came from all different parts of Sheffield to go shopping in Atalef. The Zion Chapel, that had Mary Ann Wilson buried there in the churchyard.
00:07:35
Speaker
great campaigner against slavery. Thanks to the Friends of Zion Chapel they have now rediscovered it and it's been brought back and you can visit this. If you go on the website of Friends of Zion Chapel you will be able to find all the details there.
00:07:50
Speaker
Assets suffered terribly from the enclosure rights of 1811, when many ancient footpaths were lost. Well, that I'm afraid affected a lot of suburbs. Carlton House, the one on top of Kimberley Street on that oak screen, built in 1777 and there it is, or was, how it would have looked.
00:08:11
Speaker
Now, going back to that map, I'll show you this now, the two of the halls. If you follow the cursor, bottom left hand, on right from the bottom left hand corner, we're going up at the Cliff Road, the main road, going right through at the Cliff. You come to this junction off it, and you can see it clearly, Old Hall Road. Well, that's where the old, don't know exactly where it would have been there, but that's where it was.
00:08:37
Speaker
The other one, the Newhall Road, as you come down that road again, but this time to the left where the old Baths was, you look straight down there, it says Newhall Road, and it was there. It was near the bridge, I don't know which side the bridge, the bridge, there's the Don, there's a bridge over there. It was just around this area somewhere, where the cursor is near the central middle there. That's the three halls.
00:09:05
Speaker
So this was probably, I think, the best of the lots by a long way, new haul.
00:09:11
Speaker
owned by Mr. R. Swallow, approached by Swallow's Bridge, 1798, gardens with beautiful lawns and lovers' walks, shaded by large trees and decorated with statues. The river had placid, clear water and suitable for boating and fishing. On the east side was a large lake, which acted as a foreground to pictorial representations of various fine cities. In the evenings, musical concerts were given, and the days even finished with a large firework display.
00:09:40
Speaker
As you can see, that was that was some place to go. Now, further up. Well, this is the one coming from the wicker. As you come down to this road, there's a place called Salmon Passages. And this is an actual drawing of it. And salmon was there. And it's now a nature reserve. And salmon has actually been rediscovered there. There's no way from the wicker down to us.
00:10:09
Speaker
And there is the recent the reason why I think it was either early 2019. Oh, I think it was done. Yes, I think it may have been early last year before the before we started.
From Industry to Nature
00:10:23
Speaker
But it's very quite recent. And in front of the middle station now, there is a representations of the fish in a statuette there.
00:10:34
Speaker
It is a nature reserve now, salmon pastures. Now there is the very popular shopping centre of assets left, 1948. In the background is the famous Ballastore, which is the balance building still there. Very famous in Sheffield, everybody knew where the Ballastore was. Great departmental store.
00:10:55
Speaker
And the chapel is still around today. He's still there from the 1600s and looking in quite good conditions for a recent photo. The Zion Chapel I talked about earlier.
00:11:10
Speaker
British were built in 1805, rebuilt in 1863, burned down, I'm afraid, in 1987. But the church, which contains the grave of Mary Ann Rawson, maiden name was Reed, the anti-slavery politician. That was not, she was not just local, she was national slavery abolition. And there's a picture of a lady in her later years.
00:11:36
Speaker
and a grave is here. It's a nice upside down but I'll pick out the writing for you if you follow the cursor. There it is Mary Ann and it will be the name of Reed I think, the actual surname, but there is the, I think she was 86 or something like that when she died. She's in a family tomb there. It's a lovely little nature reserve there as well.
00:11:59
Speaker
Well worth a visit. It's open, I think, two Sundays a month. I've done a marvelous job, the Friends of Zurn Chapel, and I'm a member of that, and I think you've done a great job.
00:12:12
Speaker
My connection to House of Cliff, I was born there, up to 11, that's where I lived. The school was at the back, well, to the left of the building at the top there, now being pulled out, called Morpby Street. And where these ladies are, that's where I was born and lived until 11.
00:12:31
Speaker
Not a very nice place to be, to be brought up because the smoke, I was ill all the time. But salvation came when my dad won the travel chance, which is equivalent to the lottery. He got eight drawers up and transformed us all totally out of that to a brand new house, Woodhouse Milli Handsmith with all the cows coming up to the bottom of the garden. It was just transformed all our lives.
00:12:59
Speaker
The police station was at the bottom here and so it was very safe, he didn't have a lot of your doors at all when he went out, none at all. The writers on the start which caused all the problems for others around there, it's the great steel works, the antlers would start pounding at two o'clock in the afternoon and all, everything would shake off the mangled piece and the grime and stuff would go over with mother's washing, it would be, it was a nightmare to be, it really was.
00:13:25
Speaker
let's go back to the man then and um we're looking she fell there and I don't know if he's not on it but the one we're gonna pick out and the one which no but I mean we can recognize the mortal tins lay hands with needless he lay blue more older than a standington beach if early more than the one we couldn't do was this one westbury
00:13:47
Speaker
But so the Answith Historical Society actually cracked it for me because it was Washford Bridge. This is very close to Atakleth because it's between the Wyckef coming out of the Sheffield City Centre towards Atakleth. It come to the first bridge, Washford Bridge, and that's what Washbury was.
00:14:08
Speaker
The name implies was once a point where the river was forded. It's the long established crossing point lying as it does on the line of an old parkour on later Turnpike Road. It was the third stone bridge to be built. The original bridge was built of wood in the early 1500s, damaged in a small battle at the start of the Civil War. I've never seen confirmation of that, but I have put that in. Prior to the siege of Sheffield Castle in 1644,
00:14:34
Speaker
First Stone Bridge was built in 1672, a little upstream of where Elizabeth Road's house once stood, and we're going to look at that in a very short while. The inscription we're looking for are the initials ER.
00:14:49
Speaker
The old house here was built in 1671 in Charles the second time, or later to be the Fleur de Lien. Now, this is an old packhorse trail where you can see the horses and carts here as well. And one of the one of the first stone bridges is this one there. Winkabank Hill is the one in the distance by the way. There is the Elizabeth Road. So if you look at the cursor, you'll see the R1671 over the doorway there and became the Fleur de Lien eventually.
00:15:19
Speaker
was called the Old House of Washford Bridge and was well there, I think right up to the early 20th century. And again, this is a side view of it all. There it is, ER 1671, which can see very clearly with a very, that would be an original door as well from that date.
00:15:40
Speaker
I'm going to move on to Darnell now, but you're both up to Assoc. This has got some superb history to it, although you probably wouldn't think it's a huge ride through it. From this small village derived from Durnell, a secluded nook of land so easy to see where Darnell comes from. No mention of the doomsday boat yet, there was a Darnell family in the gentry of Henry III's reign, 1641, when him Spencer of Atterbury Hall acquired the manor, the gentry family, the Spencer's.
00:16:11
Speaker
The Sanifists built it all in the center of the village in 1723, long since demolished. House became the residence of Henry Howard, father of the Duke of Norfolk. 1845 became a lunatic asylum before a house again.
00:16:27
Speaker
I always think I wouldn't like to have gone in the house again after it'd been a lunacy because I certainly wouldn't. And this is the one, actually that one earlier on should be, is this one. We've got to put it on the wrong border. This is the dated doorway of the Dollar and Old Hall, built by Samuel Stanley to throw out, of course, his name after him, which comes down to Assertliff. This is about the doorway here.
00:16:51
Speaker
and a lot of portraits on the first road was called Penfold Lane. That's interesting because there's about 30-odd Penfolds in the South Yorkshire Directory. The Penfolds are where they was impounded stray animals. Near every village, every town had Penfolds.
00:17:08
Speaker
and some more than once, and you had to pay a fine to get them back.
Recreation and Sports History
00:17:13
Speaker
That's when they were letting the picture in over the streets and that, and things of that nature. And there it is in the late 1800s, Stanifah Fall.
00:17:27
Speaker
I'd like to put up a few anecdotes to break the tour cup and let's have a look at a few Donald ones though. Any sort of misdemeanors were tried at York halfs. I'm talking about like a Crown Court one. I'm not talking about local one. They eat smaller fences.
00:17:46
Speaker
At your castle record showing 1775, John Vickers of Athens left charge with robbing John Stalifeth, there's a Stalifeth name again, of glory, three shillings and sixpence, 17.5 pence in new money, a sack containing horn from nice scales, a leg of mutton, six pounds of sugar and some flax, also stole from a John Murphy, hanged.
00:18:07
Speaker
One of Donaldson was a William Wooker who died in 1700, reputed to be, not just reputed, he was the executioner of King Charles I, but he kept a very low key, apparently, he didn't want people knowing about it.
00:18:22
Speaker
There's a nice local one here. Donald was noted for its greyhound track and a report from apparently the owner wasn't satisfied how his greyhound was running and he took the greyhound to the local vet. On examination, they, just go back to that again, on the examination
00:18:46
Speaker
The ground was reputed of being given two legs of Welsh lamb, fresh eggs, wine, cherry and port. And the owner said, it's not a rate, you know, this dog, it's not a rate by the miner. And I think the yellow girl then just ushered him out and said, get this dirt right. I hear those part pushes when I used, when I was living in Asselblith, there was no greenery at all. It would take a while.
00:19:14
Speaker
Half an hour to get to any sort of greenery, and that's where we used to descend on a Sunday to play football and other games. It's a fine country house by Hisles, called by Captain Jeffco, the first Lord Mayor of Sheffield, by the way. He was a very high industrialist, regardless of cost. When first opened as a public park, it was one of the finest parks in Sheffield.
00:19:39
Speaker
nearby was an ancient cricket ground belonging to Mr Vickers, where many great mixtures were played, and this is what really escalates Donnell, which I will elaborate on in a minute. In the 1860s, onwards Donnell was inhabited for most part by farmers and persons employed in the coal mines. Chappell and Stanith have been the main employers.
00:20:01
Speaker
Eventually, after Cliff lost all traces of the Pleasant Country Village, he once was. The theme that runs through all these suburbs, of course, is just how nice they were and remember them as they were. Now, this is Hyhes. There's still a nice park today, by the way. There's nothing wrong with Hyhes. And this has now belonged to the Tinsley Park Golf Club, I understand, the Captain Jeffcock's place.
00:20:29
Speaker
The last captain, Geoff Cott, which is a portrait of him, actually hangs in the Yertan Hall, the first Lord Merritt Sheffield. I hazels were his place. And so all the parades what came through, Darnell Attercliff, would make the way to I hazels. It was the only real park around. This was no exception, a May Day parade.
00:20:51
Speaker
But we need to look at Donald because this is so a really important piece of history this. If I told you that Donald's crooked ground was second best to lords, the second best to lords in England.
00:21:06
Speaker
And this has become Bell's life, the big cricket journal, described as a second to none among these cricket grounds. That shown in the picture is a second at dawn. I'll show you the picture in a minute. The first was opened by Mr. Steer in 1821. That was very near the partway, that one. But in the following year, the stand collapsed and two spectators were killed, making a larger ground nearby, which was the one we're going to look at, ready for plate 1824.
00:21:33
Speaker
Now, I'm just going to quickly run through all this. It could seat up to 8,000 people. It put on all England versus 22 of the Yorkshire Sussex ring. But oh, this was the important one. It was underarm bowling, but they had experimental matches at Donald, resulting in the change of the laws to permit bowling from the height of the shoulder. It was here at Donald, where it all took place.
00:21:57
Speaker
However, for the simplest of socio-economic reasons, the ground failed. Downward three miles from the centre of Sheffield, the Hyde Park ground was only a mile and a half. Had a greyhound track there and athletics were done there and the cricket was played there with Yorkshire and
00:22:14
Speaker
was the great round. So no great cricket was played at Darnell after 1829. So it was only there for five years, but certainly there it is in this heyday. Darnell Cricket Ground. It's actually underneath now, Darnell Cemetery. You ever find Darnell Cemetery? That's where the cricket ground was. The interesting thing is this was before the experimental overall bowling, because this gentleman here,
00:22:43
Speaker
is bowling on bronze you can see where the cursor is but it was Donald what brought forward uh over on bowling and the next two lords the best cricket ground in England. Further up Donald you go towards Helmsworth just at the roundabout before he had to uh sorry where the partway is the partway roundabout there
00:23:03
Speaker
is Beldenhouse Dead's wood, which you go past on the partway of course, where the final fire station is. Ancient woodland, I'm going way back, probably 16th, probably even before then. There's a Woodlands cottage here, the entrance of Beldenhouse Dead's wood. We certainly know it goes back to the 16th century, now classified as nature reserve and the car borough runs
00:23:26
Speaker
through it, which is still there today. Asia Woodlands, and very surprised they allowed the fire station to go at it, because I wouldn't have thought it would have been protected. And this is a bit of the Great Sheffield Deer Park. If we go to the bottom part, you'll see the blue line here at the bottom right-hand, bottom corner on the east side here, and that is the carbrick, which went right through to the carbrick hotel in Great Falls-Mendwall.
00:23:52
Speaker
So just at that roundabout then as you go to just below the Astor where the bar was there was a swimming pool, believe it or not, right in the middle of that that would be the roundabout and that was done in 1926 by the miners and the general strike
00:24:09
Speaker
and they lined it with wood and tires and all sorts of stuff and apparently it was really well used just to idle the way of the time I think. I'm gonna go on to Healy now, one of my favorite suburbs on this talk so far is this one.
00:24:25
Speaker
It would have been at its first hamlet, a group of farms attached to a common path or spring, first recorded in 1343, probably much older, deriving from Hee-lee, Aide-lee than Hee-lee, meaning a high woodland layering from 1553, named as it is today.
00:24:44
Speaker
Divide into three, Upper Healy, Healy Top, Middle Healy, Well Road, Gliese Road and Lower Healy, the ones we know probably best, the ones near Pondsford, Slondond Road, Artisan View, Healy Bottom. The village nestled on the hillside around the Church in Green, a very ideal place to be.
00:25:02
Speaker
The parish church dates back to 1848. A little known fact is that one of the founders of modern football, Nathaniel Kreswick, is buried in the churchyard of Healy Parish Church and in the in the yard are buried many, many young children in unmarked graves, probably from a plague at that time.
00:25:24
Speaker
This is Nathaniel Crecic then, Sir Nathaniel Crecic. English footballer, co-founder, Sheffield FC, the oldest football club in the world in 1857, with William Preston established the Sheffield Rules, which were highly influential upon the modern laws. So, and the founder of the Hallamshire Rifles. There's some nice old cottages, which the pictures are, which are no longer there now. Healy Common built around 1673 on Bleepless Road.
00:25:54
Speaker
This is the one we probably know best, the one at the bottom of London Road where
00:26:01
Speaker
Pondsford's is, Pondsford's as we follow the cursor would be somewhere around just about here where the cursor is. The white line and red line pumps are still there and that's one of them and the other one's further down. They're still there. The sheaf of course still runs through which is still there. Probably the course has altered somewhat but there's the sheaf. We're the railway
00:26:28
Speaker
The railway runs alongside it. This is a real cracking one. This one is 1855 by a lad here. This lad here is Highfield, which is facing Brammer Lane, and he's looking towards Healy. And this is the main road, which we know, where Ponsford, these are the props, the red line and yellow line. Ponsford will be around about here.
00:26:55
Speaker
I'm going up to Meadowhead, not up to Meadowhead, in the distance. But this gives you some idea of how little, how little buildings, how few buildings there were around at this time. This is the one at Avlot Bridge, which leads up to Bramall Lane, just on the left-hand side here.
00:27:18
Speaker
The other state, it's not well inhabited in 1855. There aren't a lot of buildings there. Not a lot of buildings there. Very a delicate place to be. Olives Grove. Probably people do not realize this. This is the one bottom of East Bank Road.
00:27:36
Speaker
just the beginning of Healy. This is where Sheffield Wednesday played their matches from 1880 to about 1880 something to about 1898 I think it was.
00:27:52
Speaker
And they won the FA Cup in 1896, I think it was, or 1895. The first team in Yorkshire to win the FA Cup, and they won it from this ground, this ground here. And there's an actual plaque on the surveyor's department on, I should go up East Bank Road, from bottom ground, more road, of course, we're talking about.
00:28:13
Speaker
and going then up to East Bank. This is the ground. And the Sheffield FC, of course, started not far away, not on this particular ground, which was a little bit to the right. Their football ground was to the right, the first, the only football club in the world. And Sheffield FC then moved, of course, to Hillsborough. They had a choice of Carrbrook or Hillsborough. And for some, I don't know what the reason
00:28:38
Speaker
Miley chose Hillsborough, but Carbrook was on equal terms with this at the time. There is a plaque on Miley's department there. This is the Mir's book that runs through there as well. And we're looking at this engine in Healy. Healy tilt mill, there were two mills we're going to talk about. The tilt mill over the sheath 1567 used to power cookers wheels and a wire mill Healy wheel.
00:29:05
Speaker
as the other one used to run cutlass wheels from the 17th century. From there was a thickly wooded bank, accent and miracle road bridge, which is Pavlok Bridge to us. And this wood, the one that leads to Pramle, and this wood, early 19th century murder, was committed, captured, and hanged at York Castle again. All around this area were pasty lands and cornfields, right up to East Bank. Farwells.
00:29:33
Speaker
A thing I would always come across and will come across in this talk is that Sheffield could have easily been a spa town. There are so many examples of spa wells it's untrue and we'll be talking about someone in forward in a bit but here was no exception, no exception at all. Remembered by Well Road, Wellhead and Springwood Road representing the wooded area we've just been talking about.
Sheffield's Architectural Heritage
00:30:03
Speaker
Now this is a tilt mill, a beautiful setting with the swans and ducks on it, a tilt mill in the background there and a gorgeous setting. Guernsey Road is the one as you come over Hovwatt Bridge towards Bramall Lane, turn left,
00:30:20
Speaker
where Holford says that little industrial estate and this is where the tilt mill would have been. So if you look at it here with the cursor again we've got this is the one where Holford says this is our fork bridge going to Bramallene here
00:30:41
Speaker
and if you turn left you go that little estate right at the top there would have been the tilt mill just about there where the cursor is right in the center right in the center that's where the tilt mill would have been spot on and this is a lovely plan in 1770 by Fairbanks and I've spent a lot of time on these maps
00:31:04
Speaker
The Turnpike Road is the main road going through Healy, the London Road, and Tongue Bar is just further up. Ponsford's will be around about here when the cursor is, and you can now see the Mill Dam clearly there, which we talked about on Guernsey Road there.
00:31:20
Speaker
And there are lots of different meadows and people's land, jump spinners, lambs. There are very few buildings, as you can see, as we saw from that earlier map, 1770. There's one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight. I can only count nine buildings in healing. Nine buildings on that map.
00:31:40
Speaker
And this covers most of healing, nine buildings. The toll bar is clearly shown now. We're going to look at that in a short while, so just bear that in mind. The toll bar, a lovely old map. Little London, Little London Road, near Bramalee. Then there's the cottage on the sheath, on the side of the sheath. That'll be one of the buildings we've just looked at on that map.
00:32:00
Speaker
Here it's old bar 1757, I should have shown it on the map. Potomac Harbor Road, A61 boundary. Originally it was the division between Derbyshire and Yorkshire. Eventually they moved the boundary up to Mellowhead.
00:32:19
Speaker
Tolbar. This was not just a Healy, by the way. There were a recipe for robberies, the Tolbar, so you had not quite all the cash. 1839, about 8pm, Robert Turner Norton was stopped by five ruffians who took his hat, umbrella and 15 shillings. 75 pence in money. On another evening, a man called Shrickett,
00:32:42
Speaker
A fish dealer by several men was stopped and robbed of 5,000,000 sixpence, 27,000 and a half pea, you know, in Torensen. Just off leaders road was Healy Hall, was looking at the beach in a second, an ancient 15th century building. All traces logging on. Behind were the Shakespeare Hotel.
00:33:00
Speaker
It still stands to Shakespeare. Top of Oak Street, Well Road. Well Road, again, indications far west. Glory's aspect. Glory's aspect of Hill and Dale, also Woodland and Moreland. And opposite the Crown was the Tillbar, which is just past Pondsworth's again, which you go towards now on London Road. The Shakespeare further up the hill, which is Middle Healy, and it was behind there. Healy Hall was behind the Shakespeare.
00:33:29
Speaker
and I did look round apparently there is something a bit left but not a lot so I did look round and I got a photo behind of you go round that side and round there there is this is the hall in 1893 and this is the last remnants on it this is the last stone and obviously using wood as the girder there where we would put steel or a girder or concrete girder and that's the last part of Healy Hall
00:33:59
Speaker
The corn mill is that of the building, how I refer to the tilt mill and the corn mill. The corn mill is the one would have been opposite, where Ponsford says, on the opposite side where the railway bridges, that's before the railway was built, that's where the corn mill was.
00:34:18
Speaker
looking towards the white line and the bed line. The white line is the other one's further up and that's a picture of it's looking up from the sheath back up to the corn mill. The two burned buildings, the tilt bill and the corn mill.
00:34:33
Speaker
And they'll call up an atom in Healy because they had this thing, especially when the boundaries was Yorkshire and Derbyshire near the thing where they could just hop over the other side. When the rent collector came, they would knock on each other's walls and it would go right to the top.
00:34:53
Speaker
Some of them would hop over the toll bar boundary and just nim up to the rent collector. You can't get without him in Derbyshire. But they got Weiss, so that turned it up to Meadowhead in the end. Or up an atom. I don't know why that terminology comes from. Crooks. Lies near the course of a room and road from Templebury to Brough, on no known legit lane.
00:35:18
Speaker
Main road is over a thousand years old from the Viking word krokja, 988 day meaning nook or corner of land. Area was recorded in Dunstade but Krocis the nook self-contained village from the 16th century until the end of the 19th century. This area was sparsely settled until the 1790s.
00:35:38
Speaker
The fields were a remarkable day of preservation when a turnpike road was
Crookes: From Reservoirs to Residences
00:35:43
Speaker
open from Sheffield to Lossop running by Cripps South End, totally untouched until the late 1790s. Headland Road and Headland Drive refer to the medieval open fields that survived in this area.
00:35:56
Speaker
In the 19th century, Cruch became a popular holiday spot for residents of Sheffield to escape the sudden grime of the town due to its out of city location. In 1855, it referred to the health benefits of Cruch's country because it was obviously in a much elevated position than the Sheffield wrestling in the bottom.
00:36:17
Speaker
Thomas Asline Ward, the editor of the local Sheffield newspaper, wrote to a friend in 1855, I find that your son has taken a partner and gone to Crook for the country air. I'm sorry his wife requires it, I hope her health will soon be restored. There's just an episode of him going up to Crook's to take the air because the wife is ill.
00:36:40
Speaker
1887, a bronze-aged sinner urn containing human bones, a small, this is the burial effects, a small couple of damaged bronze knife were found in the ground near Altinga Lane, led from the top of Crooks towards River Bowhills. That's in the Western Park Museum. Bowhills give some superb views, superb views over the surrounding valleys, and that's another view for them.
00:37:06
Speaker
Crooks Moor is the interesting part though of Crooks I think, chiefly noted because of its reservoirs and race course. The 1700s water from much of the township of Sheffield was from the reservoirs on Crooks Moor, conveyed in wooden pipes then ironed to a central system on revision street. From there it was transferred to casks fixed on wheelbarrows, each holding about 50 hams, which were taken about the town by men who gained a livelihood selling water.
00:37:32
Speaker
A pail full of water costs one penny. Now, the B-plane Sheffield did kick on this, saying, why should we have to pay for water? But the alternative was to trail to a spa well. You wouldn't go to an ordinary well because it would be probably contaminated water. But then having to fill, you know, queue, fill your pail up, bring it back. Why, when you can pay a penny, have it delivered to your door?
00:37:57
Speaker
numerous natural springs in the area and this is why they chose crooks because they could put, I forget how many reservoirs were put there, probably at least eight reservoirs were put in there. 1830 and field service reservoir crooks, 600 foot above sea level capacity 5.5 acres.
00:38:20
Speaker
So if you look down from Crookes, this is an interesting one. This is the new down here, which is the where just past Western Park Museum where the Sheffield University playing fields were. They're now being built on, of course, at the moment. And in the bottom is the boating lake, the Crookes town boating lake. Well, that was the older.
00:38:43
Speaker
the old dam. And you can see in the distance the old Royal Infirmary. This is the Royal Infirmary, I think. This one to the left. One of these two in here, I can't remember which one it is. One of these is the Royal Infirmary. And Western Park Museum would be up on this top here. And you can see the old main road from Crookspin down towards Sheffield there. And Dam House Restaurant, which is still around today in the central there.
00:39:09
Speaker
That's Dam House and Sheffield obviously still quite industrialized. This is Wellington Industrial Revolution now, mid-19th century. And you can see why people wanted to get out of the grime and smoke to come up to this lovely area of Cripps and an elevated position. And with cows and fields from Altarou, very, very nice indeed.
00:39:31
Speaker
And that's a proper map of it. Number two is the new dam where the University Sports Ground is. Just a Western Park Museum here. Sorry, here. And then the Sports Ground, which is now being built on with the new University complex. I think they've had big problems. I don't know whether it's a water bottle course or a problem, but they've had big problems.
00:39:56
Speaker
The old grey dam is the boat in late now in Crooks Bottom. That was the original dam. There are many more dams than these. These are just highlighting too. And the Dam House is the one I've singled out on that map. It was back, it was closed, it would reopen, but when it will reopen again, I've no idea. The Sheffield Racers, the main racecourse in Sheffield was a very big racecourse. And we'll look at it now. We're on a course on the old Crooks Mall.
00:40:24
Speaker
The Road, Last Race, 1781. Most of the cops are in, um, where are they now? They're in, uh, Western Park Museum, some of them, and, uh, Cutler's Hall. Cutler's Hall is the main one, I think. Started in 1711 by the town trustees. Police forget people away from cop fighting, bull hating, and bear baiting. Well, yeah, but it's silly. It's silly. It's a great form of gambling.
00:40:49
Speaker
After 1765, 12 pound play was priced money, but after 1765, cups of 50 pounds or more, even on the other end, that was quite a decent sort of money in those days. Stretch from Entlefeld Road to the present Crooks Junction, three-day festival, best viewing point, the site of Hallentau's Hotel, just below it, as well as Steve Bank, and you could see they went round about three times, only about a mile round, I would think, and they went round about three times.
00:41:15
Speaker
wooden grandstand 34 foot wide 54 foot long wingspan starting Lawson Road just near Manchester Road that one and we can tell them if anybody wants to knock on their doors number 8 and number 10 that's where the grandstand was and this is a nice plan of it and
00:41:33
Speaker
to the line of the racecourse. Howland Towers here, Fullwood Road, Manchester Road, and you can see Lawson Road is that first road as you come down from Manchester Road. So the Grandstand would have been just in there, there, and this is the dotted line is where the racecourse was, went right through, through Passport Hotel School, through Encliffe Crescent, through Fullwood Road as well.
00:41:57
Speaker
and past Southern Towers Manchester Road ground there probably just over a mile and went back to the three time but very important racecourse for Sheffield that one. Long gone. And due to the modern map, not another modern map.
00:42:12
Speaker
And you can see quite clearly now where it goes. Manchester Road here, Fullwood Road here, the shops here, and Lawson Road. That's where the grandstand would have been just there because the finishing post was somewhere around this area.
00:42:29
Speaker
Nice to have a look at something when you drive through these places and you can reflect back on what was there before, isn't it? That's why I love this idea where you can just reflect back on like driving through Darwin, thinking about the cricket ground, driving through Forward Road and thinking about the Sheffield races and of course the reservoirs.
Fullwood and Forward: Estates and Spa Culture
00:42:49
Speaker
Forward was originally an Anglo-Saxon settlement
00:42:52
Speaker
with a name originating from the old English language full Wuda meaning wet, marshy, woodland. Our other interpretations of the name are foul dirty wood and folkswood from the old English folk so there's a couple ones you can choose from.
00:43:08
Speaker
Prior to the Norman conquest, Ford was part of the massive estate of the Anglo-Saxon Il Walthioff, the last Saxon lord in Sheffield. After the Il's execution in 1066, for his part in the Il's revolt, his state was awarded to Norman and Roger Dubuz, they owned most of Yorkshire. Ford was mentioned in the document of 1297, when Thomas de Furneville established the Burger of Sheffield and wanted to build the castle. He stayed there in abundance, a full world, full world, and be granted herbage and foliage throughout the whole of Rivering Chase.
00:43:38
Speaker
Rivering Chase was the big forest, the big hunting part, and Fortwood was part of Rivering Chase to be able to just take an extension of Rivering Chase. The Fox family built Fortwood Hall on the north side of the Mayfield Valley. It was one of the first large houses in the area and is believed to date from the 15th century. Stumpilow Hall recorded as far back as 1397 by the Mitchell family.
00:44:03
Speaker
We've been land owners in the area since the 14th century. The hall was completely rebuilt in 1854 by Henry Isaac Dixon. This is the interesting part about forward and we get back to our old friend, the Spa Town of Sheffield, the great Spa Town of Sheffield.
00:44:21
Speaker
During the ravage of the 1666 Great Plague, Fullwood Spa became a popular resort for people alarmed by the spread of the disease. The spa was a spring of mineral water situated in the Porta Valley near the present-day Whiteley Lane. It was created by Thomas Eaton and covered the spring with a building, and it was there for people to take the waters.
00:44:44
Speaker
very well documented in fact I've got you know if I was doing this talk as a physical one I've got all the leaflets on this stuff but I can't do it because I'm doing it by digital means so you could buy the maps and the leaflets and all these things I've got them all on the racecourse on the forwards far where it was and everything
00:45:03
Speaker
Stonewall Hall, there it is in its magnificence. One what has survived is Bennett Range. It changed hands for, I think, seven figures not long ago. Harrison Lane, Fullwood, plaster cast in the dining room give the date 1518, 1663, belonged to Helen Hall of Fullwood.
00:45:19
Speaker
later passing to the Hines in 1730, Ella 9 left it to her daughter Mary Bennett. Bennett Grange and Harrison Lane was built 400 metres of the west of Forward Hall in 1580. Over the years it belonged to the Hall, Hines and Bennett families being handed to all the years and still stands today overlooking the Mayfield Valley. I could say it changed hands, not that long ago, or quite a large settlement.
00:45:42
Speaker
Right, I'm just going to pull one more in before I finish, which is Wadsley Bridge, because I like to do the stepping stones here. Derived from the Old English Wadsley, meaning Wads Forest Clearing. Anglo-Saxon lord called Aldine, but at the time of the doomsday book, wasteland. Robert the Wadsley was lord and his family carried on under Henry VI.
Mysteries of Wadsley Bridge
00:46:04
Speaker
Wodslaw all dated back to the 15th century, and are known as such as the Ozus Transpyrdux and North African Electronics Act, which altered in 1722 by George Banford. So Wodslaw Bridge, there you can see it, is quite clear on the map. Wodli Bridge F is always the S in the old thing there. There it is clearly shown.
00:46:24
Speaker
and there is the hall before it was pulled down and another one which again has been lost. But once the bridge, I need to show you this one because this has got the stepping stones, this is the one I need to get to, was a fort across the Don for cattle and carts with a row of stepping stones known as the lepine stones for pedestrians. Now people don't know whether they're actually
00:46:52
Speaker
actual stepping stones. Nobody seems to know the answer to that. A wooden bridge was built to repair the bridge dated 1716, 1748, 1762. The stone bridge replaced the wooden one in the 19th century. Once the bridge was named after High Bridge, a bridge near the eastern end of Ollerton, the original description was the hamlet near the bridge at Wardsley. Not the present railway bridge, not the present railway, but this one was called now, the original bridge.
00:47:19
Speaker
These are the stones which I'd like to finish off on because they are well documented, they're no longer there, but these are the stones which we across the forearm. Like you say, you could step on them or did you actually leap on them? We don't know exactly. And there is the bridge which we've just been talking about, the bridge.
00:47:39
Speaker
and you can see there wasn't very far from the Sheffield Wednesday football ground, the main entrance, I'm not talking about the football ground, where the offices, the way you go into the cafe, if you have a wedding and things like that, the main structure, not the actual football ground, the main structure, just up there, where you actually have to go over the bridge to get a little pedestrian bridge, where it's just up from there, where the stones were.
00:48:07
Speaker
Stocks. I think the six stocks are left over Sheffield. This isn't the ones we jack in that area and they were mainly for just small demeanours where you've been drunk or something overnight or shamed and people threw a lot of tomatoes and not at you.
00:48:51
Speaker
I'm just going to finish off on just really quickly because it's the last one.
00:48:57
Speaker
This is not really holy water. This is spa water, like bookstore water, where it can really do you good. And like I said, they were just all over the place in Sheffield, these spa wells. The Burgoyan arms lived a giant man named The Hill, seven for eight inches tall, over 29 stone, and a spa well again nearby. Burgoyan arms are now gone, being demolished.
00:49:22
Speaker
Holieson Hall, Bradfield Road, parts of demolition of the 1930s, was probably built around 1534 by Thomas Cressy, and of course welded here for more than a century. Stone used at Woodthorpe Hall, which is not far from where I live at Roanfield, because it's at Holmesfield.
00:49:37
Speaker
Burleigh House is a Georgian-style building on Broton Road in the Oldham district of Sheffield. It's the oldest building in the Oldham and Ellsbury area. Georgian and built wholly from brick, which was one of the first ones to be built from brick in Sheffield. And there's the original Oldhamstone Hall, which is now gone. And this is the extension to Woodthorpe Hall.
00:49:57
Speaker
which was taken from virtually a skip as the owner of Woodford Hall was going past and seeing it being demolished he said could I take some of that stone from my from my Woodford Hall and there it is the porch. Very good staplerly house that built a Georgian courtyard around it but the original house is that one very nicely built.
00:50:18
Speaker
So the last slide tonight is what I'm going to pick up on in later slides when we get on to the real North Sheffield is the Great Sheffield Flood, one of the great disasters of Sheffield and the North Sheffield really caught it in great intensity.
Conclusion and Reflection
00:50:35
Speaker
But that's for another talk on the ancient suburbs. So what I want you to do tonight is
00:50:40
Speaker
Just think about what we've talked about and try and reflect on when you, you know, if you're going through this, but you might have been bored. They might have lived there or just try through there, but try and reflect on some of the aspects. You've talked about the great cricket ground at normal. They reservoirs, it crooks the full load with its wonderful spa town, but not spa town, but spa resort, it was.
00:51:06
Speaker
They've all got different connotations, these suburbs, you know, even at its length, dealing with the new wall, the old door and Carlton House. So please try and reflect on these. And we've got many more talks to come on this, but that is the theme we need to do, is to bring back the great old Sheffield as it once was. Thank you very much.
00:51:36
Speaker
Thank you for listening to Archeology Now. For more information about our podcast and guest speaker, please visit our page on the Archeology Podcast Network. You can get in touch with us at Archeology in the City on Facebook, WordPress, Instagram, or Twitter. If you have any questions or comments, we'd love to hear from you. Next month, our talk will be Chris Korger, speaking on Making the Armament Center of the World, 1860 to 1914. See you next time.
00:52:09
Speaker
This episode was produced by Chris Webster from his RV Traveling America, Tristan Boyle in Scotland, and the Archaeology Podcast Network, and was edited by Chris Webster. This has been a presentation of the Archaeology Podcast Network. Visit us on the web for show notes and other podcasts at www.archpodnet.com. Contact us at chris at archaeologypodcastnetwork.com.