Introduction to Collector's Gene Radio
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You're an enthusiast and you enjoy music when you buy some records when you start buying the same record in a different color vinyl or because it had three different record sleeves and you wanna have all three sleeves, you're kind of into something that's a little bit different than just buying the record to listen to it.
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What's going on everybody and welcome to collector's gene radio. This is all about diving into the nuances of collecting and ultimately finding out whether or not our guests have what we like to call the collector's gene. If you have the time, please subscribe and leave a review. It truly helps. Thanks a bunch for listening and please enjoy today's guest on collector's gene radio.
Introducing Jay Muser, the Bespoke Tailor
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perched right on Christopher Street in the West Village, you'll find Jay Muser, the namesake bespoke tailor that's been featured in GQ, Vogue, and W.M. Brown magazine, just to name a few. We chat a lot about the usual suspects like his vinyl and watch collection, but we also talk about the nuance behind collecting and how it relates to bespoke tailoring and Jay Muser specifically. Jake touches on how the design process and collecting share a lot of the same attributes and in this case, all in good taste.
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If you've ever felt unsure about your decision to own multiple iterations of the same item, this one's for you. All right, please enjoy. Jake Muser for Collectors Gene Radio.
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Jake Muser, welcome to Collector's Gene Radio. Thanks for having me. Good to be here.
A Day in the Life at Jay's Tailor Shop
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Yeah, my pleasure. We met a few months ago in New York at Matt Rannick's launch party for the magazine at the Ralph Lauren store and kind of chatted. We were like, hey, why not get you on the podcast? So it's nice to see you come to fruition. Yeah, absolutely. What's the attitude of New York today on Christopher Street? You know, it's kind of quiet morning here, but we're just, you know, gearing up. I was just,
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kind of going through, reviewing looks. I got the rest of my team out shooting a friend and restaurateur. So that's kind of what's happening here in the docket. And then the fittings start later on today. Love that. Is that something pretty common for you guys to be fitting for editorial purposes? Yeah, we do a lot of that. I mean, we like to work with models, but I would say as a brand, we really like to work with individuals and friends and people that
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wear stuff in a unique way. Even if we're doing the styling, I think they bring something a little different than just when you work strictly with someone who's just like a talent from an agency. So today we're working with someone who's a restaurant and bar owner and someone we've known and enjoyed their establishments and they've been a client of ours and it just felt like good synergy and he's got a new spot that's opening or relatively new spots. We were going over and shooting him in his new restaurant. It just felt kind of like nice synergy.
The Influence of Vintage Collecting on Tailoring
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So as one of New York's most well-known bespoke tailors, there's a lot more to your passion and career than just tailoring, right? There's so many other elements that go into what makes you successful. And I think people forget that, right? Like in your industry,
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A lot of it is about having great taste, but it's not about just having great taste and tailoring. For you, there's two things that you collect, such as vintage records and watches. And I think those two things are also a huge part of what makes you successful in your job, right? Watches are something you wear and records are something that sets the mood, which are two important things that help culminate to your final product. So what's on the record player in the Atelier today and what's on the wrist?
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Let's see, that's a good question. I don't know, let's see, what do we have queued up to play? We've got, I keep a small selection of records here in the shop. So normally stuff that's just kind of a mix of, we keep some
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Sixties, seventies rock and roll classics. We play a lot of stones, the kinks, things like that. I also like some kind of seventies punks. So we've got a lot of Ramones, the Clash, Generation X, that kind of stuff. And also kind of pulling in some glam rocks, some Slade, things like that as well. And we try to keep it fun. We have a big playlist that we use, but we also keep a turntable here in the shop and sometimes just enjoy playing records.
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And then, yeah, on the wrist, I'm wearing a navy dial, day-to-day presidential Rolex. Beautiful yellow gold or? Yellow gold. I love that combo.
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Yeah, no, it's this is one of my favorites. It's me I've been wearing, you know, I used to switch my watches up a lot. I feel like I would change a watch every day. I've been kind of keeping this one on the wrist for the last few weeks. And it kind of feels nice to really kind of dedicate this idea that I'm going to try just wearing something for like a few weeks and really getting used to it. It's kind of the constant changing for sure.
00:04:56
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You know, it's funny. We were kind of thinking about this and thinking about your podcast and how these things, how being a collector relates to what I do.
Attention to Detail in Collecting and Tailoring
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And I think so much of it comes down to really granule details.
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and seeing a world of difference in those things. I have this navy dial, but I also have this as a black dial, which is a pretty crazy thing. This is the kind of thing where my wife's rolling her eyes.
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I can't even tell the difference. Can you even tell the difference when it's not the daylight? It's like, yeah, I can tell the difference. And these are the meaningful things that I think really become the essence of someone who just buys stuff and someone who's a real collector. The real collector is looking for the smallest
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types of, you know, having the same watch, but it's a slightly different bezel or it's the different fade of the dial. And these are the things that really get other collectors excited. You know, they say, oh, oh, it's a spider dial. Oh, that's transitional. These are these things that just make it slightly more interesting, different, and just tell a different story. And, you know, the same thing goes for, you know, records. You're an enthusiast and you enjoy music when you buy some records. When you start buying
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the same record in a different color vinyl or because it had three different record sleeves and you want to have all three sleeves, you're kind of into something that's a little bit different than just buying the record to listen to it. Or when you're buying all the mono pressings and the stereos, especially for a lot of that 60 stuff. I have all of the Dylan records on mono as well as stereo and it's like, now you're departing a little bit.
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And I think it's so much of that, and I see this, and I'm not by any means like a major denim collector, but when I buy jeans, it's in the smallest details that shows so much. And this is the kind of stuff we see in tailoring, people who are real enthusiasts and love tailoring. And when we get together at Pitti Womo or just one of these kind of menswear events, it's the smallest detail. We're like, oh, have you seen so-and-so's lapels? Oh, I like the way the bottom-notch lapel kind of faces down a little bit.
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or do you see the opening of the notch, like that's really cool, like it's semi-closed and you're like, these are details that only like a few really kind of, you know, pretty kind of specific individuals are really looking for. I talk about this a lot with my good friend David Coggins who's a
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menswear person, writer and, and you know, it's always the kind of the smallest thing. So they're like, Oh, look at this Batastoni shirt. And I was great. Look at the size of the label. Look at how small that label is. It's perfect. It's half the size of any other shirt label you've ever seen. You're like, and we're all both like, that's really good. You know, and it's those kind of things that just like, you know, that are the things that are hard to pinpoint. I think that a lot of these things that if you're a real kind of specialist and enthusiast that you
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think long and hard about, the average person or the normal consumer of goods doesn't necessarily know how to articulate, but they can sense these things. They might be like, I don't know what it is, but this is interesting. Or I like this. And they might not have the vocabulary and the way to be like, this is exactly what I like. And this is the reason that I like it. I use a lot of comparisons in what I do in terms of tailoring with wine. And I think that there is, it's similar. When you begin to get into wine, it can be hard to kind of
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No when you begin to understand what you actually. I like this one i don't like this one and knowing that maybe you like this more the minerality of polls to the full body and you know and these kind of things start to make sense and it helps you. Kind of gives you this dialogue that you can then have with some small and it doesn't mean you knew what you like before you just didn't necessarily have the. The vocabulary to explain that and that's been i think about a lot.
Guiding Clients Through Suit Nuances
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Yeah, absolutely. I mean, I would have to assume that that's a conversation that you have to have with clients a lot to make them more comfortable when they're designing new suits with you, right? They may say, you know, I really love the notch lapel look and I have it in gray and I really want a wider notch lapel and I kind of want it in gray, but I don't want the same color. And it's like, no, it's okay to have that. And it's okay to have multiple gray suits and multiple patterns and multiple fabrics and slight variations. Like that's what it's all about.
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Yeah, and I think we look for nuance in texture and nuance in hue. I mean, particularly gray. Gray can skew very cool, very blue. It can also skew taupe and almost brown. There can be grays where someone's like, is that a brown suit? Is that a gray suit? And it's like, well, it's definitely a gray suit, but it's in a lot of lightings. It's almost brown. There's hints of that. And those are those kind of like, you know, the fine details. And I think we also extend playing with proportion. There's a lot of ways. Once again, these are the kind of suits that if a
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guy wears into the office, maybe a lot of guys in the office don't even know the difference that one of those suits, even though the fabrics are almost the same, you know, had a standard notched lapel and a soft spa can meet your shoulder. And then the other one was a more English inspired jacket with a, you know, with a
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With a more belly notched how many more curve to the bottom of the lapel it has a small pad has a rope shoulder to one button to post with three roll to two and in these things the kind of aficionado sees a world of difference even though the bystanders are just a guy in a gray suit and i think that's an important thing. You know to enjoy embrace and i also think that you know especially look at things that have a very similar static you're also looking at.
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you know, different weights, different feelings. And I, Matt Heranek and I, you know, speak a lot about this and about how, and especially someone who so kind of has so many different pursuits and style. I think it's important just because you love wearing a white linen jacket when you're on vacation in Italy or Greece in August and you like drinking a cold beer and having a gin drink in the sun
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It doesn't mean that you don't love a cashmere turtleneck and a tweed jacket and an intense scotch in November in Scotland. Life is full of these different kind of changes. It's why some people who live on the West Coast are in certain places are like, I just want seasons. And I think that that's what's so nice about
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like New York. We have these. We have intense. We have hot summers. We have cold winters. We have beautiful falls, beautiful springs. And I think all of these things result in you having different things that you look forward to for each season. And I think that clothing is a big part of that.
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Yeah, no doubt. I mean, it's clear that the design process for you is a lot like the collecting process and you approach them in a lot of ways very closely. As collectors, we are kind of stuck in our ways a bit. We have a thought process of what we want and where we want to be and etc. But when it comes to being a bespoke tailor, I would have to assume there are obviously similarities there too. You like what you like, you know what you know, and kind of design what you feel is best.
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I'm assuming there's customers who want to do things that you aren't totally comfortable with and well-versed in. From a collector's mindset, how do you navigate the design process when you have someone that's coming in and shaking things up a bit?
Embracing Unique Client Requests
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Well, there's a couple ways that I would interpret that. One would be there's when someone comes in and has something that's really interesting, but I maybe don't know how to do. And I think something like that we always take as a, as a great challenge, depends what it is. But generally speaking, I like the answer to kind of never be no and to have a solution for that. And I think anyone who works with me or my team, it's like, oh, is there'll be like, uh, you know, they'll like put the phone on hold.
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Do we know where to do this?" It's like, absolutely. I got a guy for that. I think that that's just my personality, but I think it's really nice when someone comes to you with a concept and being able to bring it to fruition. I've done a fair bit of work in film and TV. I've worked with a lot of musicians. We've done a lot of replicas of different things. We've looked at archival stuff. Those things are really hard to create and they're hard for my old school tailors to
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really put together. So it takes a lot of me sitting down with them and drawing it and sketching, kind of explaining how I think you can achieve that. And that's fun. I really enjoy those challenges. And it's like, once you've done it, it only makes the next one easier and the different interpretation even easier. And it just, you know, it's something that you build and you grow. So I'm always kind of looking forward to those challenges. I think what's harder, maybe in a similar vein is when someone comes with something that you're kind of like,
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Yeah that's very easy to do but i don't think it's very i don't think it'll go very well i don't think it'll look good you try to think about how to. You want to press on that like this way them a little bit and you're kind of like hey i i've done this a lot of made a lot of suits you know i don't know if that's the right combo.
00:14:13
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And I think that there's a gentle way of saying that. And there's also like, sometimes somebody really wants to do it, you kind of talk through it. And they're like, don't worry, like, I see this, I've got a vision. And you're like, you know, all right. There's a lot of dialogue in the, in the, in the suiting world around what bespoke is. And there's a lot of definitions. And this is something that we take very seriously in terms of when we make a bespoke suit, opposed to a custom suit or made to measure suit. But also along with that, I think that there's
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a whole other debate around house style and how flexible or inflexible you are with this. And I think that having a house style, it's important. It's how you define yourself. Certainly, this is like a very serious thing for Savile Row. You don't go to
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a big Savile Royal House and asked for a design from another Savile Royal House. They were like, no, we have our own style. But I also think it's really important if you call yourself a bespoke tailor to listen to the person and try to think about who they are and what they want and design something that's a little bit that's collaborative, that's part you and part them. And be well versed to a certain extent to do those things, right?
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New York as a tailoring market, I would have to assume, is a pretty different beast than Savile Row. Both have their nuances and quirks.
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I think being more well-versed in a multitude of different tastes and styles is way more important than just having something that is so set in stone. You're so good to do one idea, and then you're like, well, is this really a bespoke suit if I can only get one thing? And I talk about this, I don't know that I feel, I'm not saying that if you only do one thing, you're not a bespoke tailor. Of course it's a bespoke tailor. I just think it's an important part of this mindset to take on these challenges, but it's also,
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You know as part of your brand and what you do you have to think about how you temper some of those choices you know and that's kind of The challenge in it and there are things that are totally kind of especially when it comes to stage clothing You know, it's very individual. We're really working with people and thinking totally outside of Anything that is my house style. I'm working with them Holy as like a
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you know, to really bring kind of crazy ideas to fruition. And I think that that's not crazy, just like wild ideas. And we're looking at old Grady takes a trip suits, and we're looking at nudie suits, and we're looking at a lot of the stuff, you know, think of all the stuff that the Beatles and the Stones wore in the 60s and 70s. And we're looking at costumes from old movies and trying to pull those things together. And yeah, it's not easy. But yeah, but that kind of that's very different. You know, if someone's coming to me like
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going on tour and I need all these different outfits, you're thinking it's totally different. What I don't love, I would say, is when someone comes in and says,
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can you make me a Liberano and Liberano suit?" I'm like, what do you mean by that? I understand. There are things that you like. We can talk about details that you'd maybe like to pull from a Florentine-style suit. Yeah, I'm okay with doing that, but that's not what I do. I don't like ... We'll come in and just say, I wanted this, and then we knock it off. You don't come in with your Tom Ford suit and say, make me a Tom Ford suit.
00:17:27
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No, no, no, no. We can talk about elements you might have seen on a Tom Ford suit that you like and blend those things together. But that's kind of, I think those are some of the important distinctions, I guess. On the same kind of topic of that, how do you make sure to keep things relevant and obviously not getting too complacent in the same designs and patterns
Staying Relevant with Trends
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each year? I mean, is that kind of where Pitti Womo comes in? Is that really like the mecca for everybody's next season?
00:17:57
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I don't know if it might be the Mecca for next season. I think it's a nice place to see things, you know, for a certain type of thing. You're seeing kind of, you're seeing changes, you're seeing kind of where people's as they present the collection for the following year and they're probably dressing
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with the year after that mind so i think you're able to kind of do a lot of projection you know kind of think about fabric forecasting and that kind of thing and i don't know that the fabrics themselves change so much i think that it's more about the way things are paired in the portions that are used in the
00:18:32
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You know, I think we saw, you know, if you look at Pretty Woman, we saw this kind of thing, I mean, especially when I first started going 10 years ago, was heavy on the peacocking. It was heavy on the bright colors and the huge checks and the colored hats.
00:18:46
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I think that the vibe is a lot more subdued. I feel like the placebo mole flex is like a charcoal gray suit, like, you know, in a striped tie or something. Like a denim shirt. Yeah, exactly. And I think that those are just kind of natural, natural reactions to different things. But, you know, I say we, I mean, kind of my, my, my team here, we look at what's happening in the fashion world, and we look at what's happening in street style, and we
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We look at a lot of different trends and I think we kind of think about those things and try to synthesize it a little bit even though we're not redefining ourselves with each season and we're not looking to kind of
00:19:28
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vastly change. It's back to the same kind of idea. It's about nuance. It's about small changes. It's about adding a quarter inch here, subtracting a quarter inch here, thinking about maybe adding a little bit more break to the trouser. It's bringing the rise up a little bit. It's those kinds of things that
00:19:45
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that make a huge difference to us and I think to the individual. People react to that and not swing the pendulum so far one direction or the other. Absolutely. And I mean, you have a loyal client base as well as obviously garnering new clients as well, but I would love your thoughts on the idea that clients are kind of inadvertently collecting suits from you.
00:20:11
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Whether they realize it or not, they're building a collection of suits from you. Yeah, and a lot of them, it's not like they're just buying from me. They're often buying from all kinds of other tailors, and I think, yes, certainly. It's hard to define that thing. Are you a collector or enthusiast? But I think what you see with that are people who are really
00:20:31
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building out a sizable wardrobe with a lot of thought. I have many clients that come in with spreadsheets with what they have, what they want to have, what they believe is well-rounded, what are the things, a list of these are things that I think are important that eventually I want to have and it's vast and it's interesting to
00:20:56
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To get that feedback are to see that like the level of people are putting into their into their clothing. It's about understanding and seeing difference in the small the small details.
Collector's Gene Rundown and Reflections
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All right, Jake, let's wrap it up here with the Collectors Gene Rundown. And you can answer these questions based on any of the items you collect. You can base it on previous designs and collections that you've done for JMU, sir. Totally up to your interpretation. What's the one that got away? You know, I'll start kind of from the top here, the one that got away. This is kind of always a challenging thing.
00:21:36
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With watches, it's not as much about the specific thing. It's more the, especially, you know, I've collected watches now for more than 10 years. Anyone who knows any of my watches knows it 10 years ago. There were a lot of deals in there. You know, when you look back through all the emails and you're like, I was haggling over
00:21:54
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$500 on a Royal Oak that the guy wanted, like a stainless steel Royal Oak for $6,000 and I wanted it for $5,500, like am I out of my mind? Why didn't I buy that? And that goes for, you know, there's so many of those things where you're like hemming and hawing over like a vintage Daytona that was like 10 grand or something and you're just like, ugh, what was I thinking? So it's hard to point to that stuff
00:22:21
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I have recently been kind of bidding on a brown dial, brown bezel 1675 GM, Rolex GMT, and I kind of, it was like, you know, it ended up selling for what I think was a very good price for it. It had a great dial.
00:22:40
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It was definitely over polished. It had a Jubilee band. The Jubilee was pretty stretched out. It makes it probably less collectible, ultimately less truly valuable. I just thought that would be kind of like a real daily driver watch. Love it. How about the unobtainable? It would probably be a Paul Newman Daytona, something like one of the
00:23:04
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I think that that's kind of bad, especially the gold ones are really like real kind of super grail, kind of unobtainable things. Yeah, they are incredible and obviously the prices have gone absolutely haywire.
00:23:19
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And that's something that I think, oh, man, I would want that. But it's also hard. Obviously, I'm limited by how much money I would spend on a watch, but also in how much money I have. But I really like wearing my watches. And it's hard because I don't really know that I would want to wear a $500,000 watch. I could tell you another one.
00:23:43
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like a three, six, nine sub, you know, something like that. We're like, Oh, so cool. You know, like that's like an amazing, but it's also like what I feel comfortable walking down the street with this thing. And then if I'm not going to walk down the street with it, then what's the, maybe what's the point of really owning it, but yeah. And that's such a utilitarian watch and to feel stressed about wearing something that is meant to be used.
00:24:04
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whether it's a gold watch or a dress watch or whatever, you know, they're obviously all meant to be used to tell time, but to be nervous about wearing a watch that is historically meant to be used as a tool. Especially like a real tool tool watch. You're kind of like, all right, you know, I mean, obviously.
00:24:23
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I say that. I have all the reference diving watches. I'm like, I don't even wear that thing in the shower. That's okay. Yeah, absolutely. What about the page one rewrite? Money, no object. You can collect anything besides watches and records. What would it be?
00:24:41
Speaker
Um, I'd probably collect art, buy some art, but I wouldn't call myself an art collector. I'd say art would be a big one. I'd say really, I could probably, I could definitely get into kind of serious, um, re original mid-century modern furniture where things get pretty, pretty expensive real fast. Real quick. How
The Joy of Collecting: Possession vs. Acquisition
00:25:04
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about the goat? So anyone you look up to in the collecting world or admire as a great collector?
00:25:10
Speaker
You know, my friend Josh, nicknamed Josh Stiles, DJ, record store owner, has probably the most impressive record collection of just about anyone I've ever met. And not just records, I mean, every kind of music ephemera thing from the kind of 60s, 70s and 80s. So he would be the one for that. Watches.
00:25:38
Speaker
you know, someone like Ralph Lauren, who's got the watches, he's got the cars, he's got the homes, you know, all that stuff. He's good. He might he certainly certainly a goat when it comes to that as well. It's a no brainer. Yeah, it's like it's all of it. How about the hunt or the ownership?
00:25:55
Speaker
It's funny. I think it's a hard combo. Obviously there's like, I really, I'll be the first to say that I think thinking about what you're going to buy and buying it and looking for it and wanting it is like,
00:26:10
Speaker
When you get to the thing, you're like, oh great, I got it. What's next? And that's just kind of like a maybe a, that's kind of part of the, I don't know if we will call it the sickness or the gene, but that's part of this thing where you're thriving for more. But that being said, I really,
00:26:30
Speaker
I love all of this stuff. This is something that I've spoken about with lots of different friends that are collectors. It's like that Marie Kondo thing. It's like, well, if it doesn't spark joy, then get rid of it. I'm always like, but it all sparks joy. I like it all. Whatever it is, I don't care if I have three copies of the record, they're each in different condition, and I love them all. They all spark joy. I don't really want to get rid of any of them. This is like when you maybe run the fine line of the hoarding gene as well.
00:26:59
Speaker
Yes, definitely, no doubt. Which I think that many of our great collectors, that's the kind of behind the scenes. There's Matt Heranek being, I don't know how much he was opened up about it, but I'm going to say it now. It might be a little bit of a hoarder. That's got five different residences now. When I bought my second home, I said, on some level, I'm doing this just so I can have more space for my stuff. Right.
00:27:25
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Yeah, no doubt. I mean, there's definitely an element to wanting everything and wanting to have everything when you have, we'll call it the illness, if you will. Where do you like to buy stuff from? Do you like auctions? Are you a dealer guy?
00:27:41
Speaker
all over the place. I think when it comes to records, you know, I think if I'm looking for something specific, like for certain more obscure, let's say if I'm, I like, you know, I grew up kind of in the punk rock scene. If I'm buying old punk records, these were made limited things and they're often like one label might have only put out 65 records. So it's pretty cut and dry. You have to have all 65, even if you don't love the bands.
00:28:02
Speaker
So you're like, oh man, I'm missing one more from like that catalog. So you go online, you look on eBay, you find that record, you get it. And then you're like, all right, I have all 65 of those 40. These are often seven inches, not like not even full piece. So that's kind of dry. But I also think what's fun and I love to travel, buying buying records in stores like that's just there's just something great going. You flip through it, you find something that you didn't necessarily know you were looking for that love.
00:28:27
Speaker
that you want to have or it's a different edition or something like that, that's a big one for me. And especially when you're in England and in France and those places, you just find really interesting records. And all over the US, find great little record shops. So that would be what I do for that. When it comes to watches,
00:28:52
Speaker
Most of my stuff is vintage. I'm working with vintage. I like auctions. I like to find something. I send it to different friends who know more than I do. What do you think it is? Am I missing something? What do I see here? Is this good? And then I take in their advice, their buy or don't buy, and then working with dealers. So it's kind of a mix there. Love it. Jake, most importantly, do you feel that you were born with the collector's chain?
00:29:20
Speaker
Yes, I think that this is the kind of thing that you can develop, but it's really kind of it's in the personality and kind of part of part of who you are. And there's an ambulance coming to help you. Yeah, there's an ambulance coming to pick me up right now. Exactly. But it's part of who you are and your and your personality and just kind of, you know, I think people who have this that kind of manifest in all different ways.
00:29:45
Speaker
Love it. Jake, so great to have you on. I appreciate your time, and let's definitely catch up for a record and a cocktail next time I'm in New York. Yeah, I look forward to it. Thanks again, man. I'll talk to you soon. Take care. Cheers. All right, that does it for this episode. Thank you all for listening to Collector's Gene Radio.