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Chaz Giles, founder of Alida Labs and former head of external innovation at Estee Lauder, returns to Skin Anarchy to cut through the AI hype: where it creates real value in beauty and wellness, why midsize brands are outpacing the giants, how to get your data ready, and what AI means for executives and their careers.

Who is Chaz Giles? 

Two decades across Procter & Gamble, venture capital, and Estee Lauder, then founder of Revea and now Alida Labs. "How do you turn technology into things that consumers love and are good for business?"

Where does AI actually fit in beauty right now? 

Unevenly. "We had a custom GPT... that's why it didn't really help, because it wasn't the use case that was right." Real value lives in data, formulation, product development, and DTC analytics.

Where should a brand start with AI? 

With its existing strengths. "Think of AI as a superpower... where do you want to create a superpower?" Point it at your competitive advantage, not everything at once.

How can AI help a brand stand out in a saturated market? 

By formulating with claims in mind, mapping white space, and turning one concern like hyperpigmentation into multiple defensible mechanism claims. "It's getting more mileage out of the formulas and ingredients I have."

What is the difference between LLMs and agentic AI? 

Levels of value. "My agentic flows, I now can set up effectively AI employees and AI teams," letting a four person startup operate like a team of 40.

Why are midsize companies beating the giants at AI? 

"They are not [winning], because they cannot get out of their own way in terms of how to do that redesign." Nimble midcaps are leapfrogging larger rivals and halving time to market.

How should companies get their data ready for AI? 

Out of silos first. "There never was an award for the world's sexiest data." Consolidating scattered data unlocks synthetic testing and digital twins.

How much AI is too much? 

Never too much data, easily too much AI. "AI should be used in places that it's giving me more value than I can create with my org chart today."

How is AI changing beauty investment? 

"AI is eating software," erasing old moats. Brand and distribution matter more again, and a new crop of AI native brands is coming.

What does AI mean for executives? 

A hard mirror as the value of information trends toward zero. "It's about how to apply, how to integrate, how to lead the teams and the transformation."

How do leaders stay indispensable in an AI future? 

By leaning into what machines cannot do. "You as a leader are still uniquely positioned to take that information and translate it into valuable action."

Listen to Skin Anarchy wherever you get your podcasts.

Visit Alida Labs [https://www.alidalabs.ai/]

Contact Chaz: chaz@alidalabs.ai, LinkedIn [https://www.linkedin.com/in/chazgiles/], Instagram [https://www.instagram.com/chazgiles.ai/]

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How AI Will Reshape Beauty, Science, and Leadership with Chaz Giles

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Content creator Marjan Tabibzada joins Skin Anarchy to talk about building a career with no blueprint: her start at the MAC counter, representing brown and Middle Eastern women in beauty and fashion, surviving online hate, vetting brand deals honestly, and the Times Square campaign that made a childhood dream real.

Who is Marjan Tabibzada? 

A creator who built a following representing women who rarely saw themselves online. "There's so many of us out there."

How did she get started in content creation? 

Posting on the side while at Cal State Northridge and the MAC counter. "I really felt like I was doing a bajillion different things." TikTok took off, and she chose creation over law school.

What did she learn at MAC Cosmetics? 

That inclusivity could be a foundation. "Every shade of the foundation that you can" imagine was there.

How do you build a following with no blueprint? 

Relentless trial and error. "There will be hundreds of my videos that have flopped... and you have to pick your butt back up and keep creating."

How does she keep content relatable across cultures? 

By reworking revealing trends into modest looks. "We are the brown girls where we can't really show... so let's make this a little bit more modest."

How does she handle online hate and cancel culture? 

By refusing to let it take root. "If you just allow those comments to take over, you're going to go into such a dark place that getting out is going to be very difficult."

Where is influencer marketing headed? 

Creators replacing traditional ads. "People trust the influencers, and when you relate to a content creator, it brings such a powerful take on why brands should work with you."

How does she vet brand deals? 

Authenticity first. "Would I genuinely recommend this if there wasn't a campaign attached to it?" She has refused deals that asked her to lie about results.

Does becoming an influencer make you rich? 

Not how people assume. "Just because you make content does not mean you're gonna be rich." Her first brand deal paid about a thousand dollars.

Why do content creators need a plan B? 

Platforms are not permanent. "You need a plan B." She kept her degree and built across Instagram, YouTube, Snapchat, and more.

What advice does she have for aspiring creators? 

Start before you feel ready. "I learned by doing, by making mistakes, and by staying curious." Age is just a number.

Listen to the full episode with Marjan Tabibzada on Skin Anarchy, available wherever you get your podcasts.

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What It Means to Become the Face of Sephora with Marjan Tabibzada

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Monique Rodriguez, founder and CEO of Mielle Organics, joins Skin Anarchy to trace her path from labor and delivery nurse to textured hair care leader: bootstrapping through millions in debt, protecting the brand's DNA through the P&G acquisition, surviving a viral moment, and where textured hair innovation goes next.

Who is Monique Rodriguez? 

A former labor and delivery nurse who bet on herself. "I literally built mine from the ground up by bootstrapping."

How did she build Mielle as an inclusive brand? 

By solving for a category, not a demographic. "Textured hair has no specific culture, race, ethnicity... I really wanted to be inclusive of all."

What does bootstrapping actually mean? 

"It means that you're making payroll and you're paying other people before you pay yourself." Mielle ran two to three million dollars in debt.

How do you know whether to pivot or push forward? 

Read the business honestly, not emotionally. "I knew that we were holding on to something special... it was time for me to keep pushing forward."

How did she get investors and her team to believe? 

Data and character. A Berkshire investor backed the founders for their humility and willingness to ask questions. "You can't teach that."

How do you choose the right investors? 

Separate your identity from the company. "You can't have an emotional attachment to the brand if you are wanting to take on investors... it's really the customer's brand."

How did Mielle protect its DNA through the P&G acquisition? 

By putting it in writing. "Yes, we're selling you the company, but the sole DNA of the brand shall not be touched."

How should a brand handle going viral? 

Treat it as exposure, not a foundation. "Having a viral moment can be very powerful, but it's also very temporary."

Where is textured hair care headed? 

Toward wellness and scalp care. "Textured hair will continue to be the majority," with innovation moving to a holistic, education first approach.

What advice does she have for founders building beyond a label? 

Start before you feel ready. "The biggest difference between people who dream and the people who build is that the builders take action."

Would she do anything differently? 

Nothing. "All of the mistakes and bad decisions that we made were all a part of the learning lessons."

Listen to the full episode with Monique Rodriguez of Mielle Organics on Skin Anarchy, available wherever you get your podcasts.

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Building Mielle: Purpose Before Profit with Monique Rodriguez

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Ever wondered what it takes for a skincare brand to win a prestigious award? In this episode, we spotlight the 2026 Science of Skin awards, where innovation and science-backed formulations reign supreme. 

The Science of Skin Awards, hosted by Skin Anarchy, represent the gold standard in skincare innovation. With only ten brands receiving this prestigious recognition each year, the awards celebrate the intersection of cutting-edge technology and pioneering advancements in skin science.

These awards are renowned for their rigorous scientific evaluation process, which ensures that winning brands demonstrate a high standard of scientific validity. They're not just presenting novel ideas, but also proving the effectiveness of their products.

The Science of Skin Awards serve as a global beacon for consumers. By receiving this award, a brand signals that its over-the-counter products are based on sound science, offer tangible benefits, and can be trusted for their claims. 

Dr. Ekta Yadav walks through every 2026 winner and the reasoning behind each selection. e.l.f. Beauty is honored at enterprise scale for maintaining formulation discipline across Rhode, Well People, Naturium, and e.l.f. SKIN while keeping proven actives accessible. Exocellure™ Dermaceuticals earns recognition for treating exosome science as a data problem rather than a marketing one, supplying full characterization evidence including CD81 markers and solving the stability issue that has quietly undermined the category by encapsulating individual particles for room temperature shelf life. First Aid Beauty is credited with turning barrier repair into a functional category years before the market caught up, and DRMTLGY for taking formulations developed over decades for dermatologists and plastic surgeons and making them available directly to consumers.

Hydrinity reframes hyaluronic acid as a repair signal and, with Retazone, makes the case that delivery systems have to evolve alongside regenerative actives. Hypothesis Bio applies bioengineered enzymes that target Staph aureus and C. acnes selectively, translating academic microbiome research into products people can actually use at home. XOMD, founded by Dr. Steven Dayan and Dr. Sabrina Fabi, introduces moodceuticals and its patent pending OX Factor technology, opening a commercial path for psychodermatology. Musely closes the access gap through telemedicine and customized prescription therapy paired with ongoing physician oversight. Kate Somerville is recognized for the esthetician instinct behind ExfoliKate and multimodal exfoliation, and Routine Skin for coming out of peptide manufacturing rather than ingredient sourcing, which is exactly why its GHK-Cu formulas are dosed to do the repair biology the peptide is known for.

Tune in as we explain our trailblazing awarded brands!

Listen to the full 2026 Science of Skin Awards episode on the Skin Anarchy podcast, available on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and wherever you get your shows. 

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Science Of Skin 2026 - Explained & Winners

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David Suzuki, founder and CEO of Bio-Therapeutic, explains frequency specific microcurrent: how it stimulates the mitochondria, why ATP decline drives aging, and what the clinical data shows.

What is Bio-Therapeutic?

A second generation, FDA registered device manufacturer founded in the 1970s by Suzuki's father, an electrical engineer who worked on Boeing missile systems before turning to the body's own electrical system. "Every function in the human body is powered by cellular energy, but the frequencies are what the commands are."

How does aging relate to mitochondria and ATP?

ATP production peaks in the mid 20s and declines, leaving damage unrepaired. Collagen, elastin, and circulation are all ATP driven. "What I really have when I look in the mirror is age... a collection of damage that I no longer have enough cellular energy to repair in real time."

What is the difference between EMS, TENS, and microcurrent?

EMS twitches muscles and above roughly 300 microamps shuts the mitochondria down. TENS controls pain without healing. Microcurrent works low. "If you're down in the more 40 to 80 microamps, that's really where the sweet zone is." A 1982 study found low microamperage can generate up to 500 times more ATP.

What does the clinical data show?

University of Washington studies found wound healing "sped up by nearly four times," plus a 14 percent collagen synthesis improvement, a 48 percent elasticity increase, and a 38 percent circulation increase over roughly 20 days.

What order should you layer microcurrent with skincare?

Cleanse, exfoliate, microcurrent, then products smallest molecule to largest. The stratum corneum is non living and non conductive. "70 to 80 percent of the products that you put on topically will get caught up in the stratum corneum and never make it to the living tissue."

How much does microcurrent improve absorption?

"Your electricity is going to help get much better absorption into the skin, maybe 50 to 60 percent more than if you were just topically applied," provided the skin is properly exfoliated first.

Why does ingredient concentration matter?

Many brands cite a study's results while dosing a fraction of the studied amount. "That is a true statement. They just left out the fact that it was a 2 percent introduction of that particular key ingredient."

What pairs well with microcurrent?

LED across blue, yellow, and red wavelengths, plus oxygen infusion, since the Krebs cycle is aerobic. "You start to spray that onto the surface of the skin... your mitochondria are chirping like little birds."

Can you use microcurrent with Botox and fillers?

Yes, with coordination and timing. "You just want to make sure that whoever your injector is, that they're aware that you're doing microcurrent." Expect a three to four week gap, longer for fillers.

How is microcurrent different from microneedling or laser?

Those work through controlled damage. Microcurrent upregulates what the body already does, and it moves muscle. "There's nothing else that does the sculpture of the face. And that's where microcurrent comes in."

Does microcurrent fatigue your muscles?

Not at proper levels. High current EMS depletes localized ATP; low level microcurrent does the opposite. "You can't really overdo it with microcurrent, but you can basically really regenerate them and make them healthy."

Is microcurrent safe for the heart?

Facial current stays localized between the probes. Federally required contraindications include "pacemaker, any sort of h

How Bioelectricity Shapes Skin Health with David Suzuki of Bio-Therapeutic

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Chris Hobson, CEO of Rare Beauty Brands, home to Patchology and Kate Somerville, breaks down the business of beauty: the insight that turned Old Spice around, what it now costs to build a brand, how to handle dupes, and the metrics founders should track.

Who is Chris Hobson?

He started a clothing brand in college in Canada, then joined Procter & Gamble in brand management, running Scope, Folgers Canada, Old Spice, and Secret before an MBA and a career building brands. "As a brand manager, you get trained as sort of the mini general manager of your brand."

How did he turn around Old Spice?

By finding an insight instead of denying the brand's age. Research showed a woman would borrow her partner's deodorant from almost any brand except Old Spice. "We came up with this funny tongue in cheek positioning of Old Spice as the last bastion of masculinity." The brand went from a distant fifth to third in Canada, and the positioning went global.

What makes consumers loyal to a beauty brand?

Product quality first, emotional connection second. "When you get that magic of the consumer insight married to really high quality product, that's the foundation of a brand."

What insight drives Patchology and Kate Somerville?

Two very different ones. "The insight for a Patchology consumer is I want a moment of joy... the act of putting on the mask slows me down from my crazy day." The Kate Somerville consumer is buying certainty from a clinic with 20 years and 250,000 facials behind it.

Should beauty brands chase trends?

Only in ways authentic to the brand, though Hobson is candid about the pull. "The science is sort of suspect, but hey, it's a $10 million opportunity. How do we not do it?" Brands lose themselves when they go wholesale trend focused.

Why did Patchology stop marketing its science?

Because consumers buy results, not mechanisms. Hobson watched women's eyes glaze over at talk of ten times more ingredient delivery, then light up when the patches came off. "Turns out all she cares about is the better results."

How long does it take to build a beauty brand?

Longer than founders expect, now that ad costs have erased the cheap growth era. "You've got to be prepared to raise 10 to 20 million dollars at least, and spend 10 to 20 years on it. That's the new reality."

Why is it harder for indie brands to scale now?

The economics of attention changed. "The advertising prices have come up and the ROI has come down, and so it's harder for young brands to make that leap."

How should a brand respond to dupes?

By owning the category so copies feed demand back to the original. "When a brand copies us, a rising tide lifts all boats." Patchology is up over 20 percent this year.

Do dupes steal customers from the original?

Within limits set by price and psychology. "They're wearing it and they're knowing in their mind, I'm not really wearing Chanel." Hobson argues most of those consumers come back.

Does getting into Target or Walmart grow a beauty brand?

Not without demand behind it. "If you don't have the demand generation capability in place to move that product off the shelf... you're out." Accessibility is a high stakes strategy, not a shortcut.

What metrics should new beauty founders track?

Repeat purchase above all, measured by cohort rather than revenue share. "The way we make money as brands is repeat purchase... if I had to go out and acquire a customer every single time, I'd go out of business."

What is the biggest busin

The Science of Building Great Beauty Brands with Chris Hobson of Rare Beauty Brands

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Catherine D'Aragon, CEO of First Aid Beauty, joins Skin Anarchy to discuss how the brand built its barrier science foundation years before barrier repair became a trend, why it develops products around problems instead of buzzy ingredients, how it responds to dupes, what changed after the P&G acquisition, and the GLP-1 body care innovation coming next. Below are the biggest questions answered in this episode.

Did First Aid Beauty focus on barrier repair before it was a trend?

Yes. The brand was founded in 2009 around sensitive skin, and its hero product, Ultra Repair Cream, carries a clinical claim of strengthened skin barrier in seven days, long before barrier language dominated the market. D'Aragon is direct about the wave of newcomers: "There's a lot of brands that came in and said, oh, we invented barrier repair, and now we're the brand for barrier repair." First Aid Beauty simply talked about it as sensitive skin science, and every formula since has been built to strengthen the barrier.

How does First Aid Beauty decide which skincare trends to follow?

By evaluating the science behind the trend rather than chasing it. "We need to evaluate the science behind the trend... we don't develop product in three months. We develop product, it takes years to develop." The brand does listen to its community for new ways to use existing products: the KP Bump Eraser body scrub was developed for keratosis pilaris, but when consumers began using it to prep skin before tanning, the brand added that usage to its messaging. Trends can expand how a product is talked about, but they never start the development process.

How do you build a skincare brand that lasts?

Stay true to the brand DNA through every launch decision. First Aid Beauty was founded to deliver problem solving formulas for sensitive skin with a luxurious experience, filling the gap between effective but joyless drugstore products and sensorial prestige ones. D'Aragon admits the brand once drifted: "We kind of went off track and we launched product that was really not in that kind of problem solution sensitive skin, and we decided to discontinue those products." Anything that makes sensitive skin react in testing never launches, no matter how promising.

Is retinol safe for sensitive skin?

Conventional retinol often is not, which is why First Aid Beauty spent years solving the problem before entering the category. "We spent like three years researching and we found a very specific technology about encapsulated retinol with slower delivery, then it's less irritation." The encapsulation slows release into the skin, delivering the antiaging benefit without the stripping that disqualifies most retinol products for reactive skin.

Can exfoliation work for sensitive skin?

Yes, if the acids are chosen for gentleness rather than intensity. The Facial Radiance Pads pair glycolic acid with lactic acid, a gentler acid, to deliver what D'Aragon calls "real exfoliation, but without the irritation." The combination approach reflects the same principle as the retinol work: the category is not off limits for sensitive skin, but the formulation has to be rebuilt around it.

Who is the First Aid Beauty customer?

Not one person but several distinct tribes, which the brand studies through extended consumer research sessions. "We call it the simple girl, the person that just wants simple product that works and is tired of the trend and is tired of going to social media." Other tribes are actively problem solving specific skin concerns. The brand adapts its messaging to each tribe but never adapts the products themselves, which stay anchored to the science.

How does First Aid B

Before Barrier Repair Was a Trend with Catherine D'Aragon of First Aid Beauty

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Dermatologist Dr. Muneeb Shah returns to Skin Anarchy to break down what actually works in skincare, how GLP-1 medications affect the skin, the truth about trending ingredients, and how to spot credible science communication online. Below are the biggest questions answered in this episode.

Why did Dr. Muneeb Shah start his own skincare brand, Remedy?

After years of educating patients one at a time in clinic and then millions online, Dr. Shah saw a gap between how dermatologists actually treat skin and how most products are formulated. Remedy was built to combine multiple ingredients backed by evidence into single formulas, control ingredient sourcing, and remove emerging allergens as the science evolves. He frames it as the natural next chapter of his work: "Content was a hill at one point, and this is my new hill... building a brand that really becomes a legacy brand."

Why do so many skincare products feel identical?

Because many of them are. Dr. Shah explains that contract manufacturers offer white label stock formulas, so any brand with capital and distribution can put its label on an existing product and launch it. "It's not hard to launch products if you have the capital and the distribution network to support it," he says. "It's hard to launch good products." When an ingredient trends, brands rush to license the same stock formula, which is why the market floods with nearly identical products around every viral ingredient. Remedy's policy is to never use white label formulas and to start from a patient need rather than a trend.

Which skincare ingredients are actually backed by science?

According to Dr. Shah, the strongest evidence still sits with the tried and true ingredients: retinoids like retinol and tretinoin, alpha hydroxy acids like glycolic acid, select peptides but not all of them, ceramides for the skin barrier, niacinamide, and azelaic acid. His formulation philosophy anchors everything around these proven actives first, with marketing layered on only afterward, never the reverse. "The products have to be really great products that people will use forever, and they have to use ingredients that truly have the efficacy studies on them."

Is PDRN worth the hype?

Dr. Shah does not dismiss PDRN, noting it has real traction in East Asia, where dermatologists champion it, particularly in injectable form. "I'm not saying that doesn't have validity or evidence. Time will tell if this is something that stands the test of time." His caution is about how trends work: brands slap labels on stock PDRN formulas to ride the moment, and an ingredient trending is not the same as an ingredient being proven.

What does "next generation biomimetic surfactant technology" actually mean?

Usually nothing. Dr. Shah points out that "they're using the same surfactants everybody's got in their formulas... no one's inventing new surfactant technologies." Terms like this are marketing language designed to make a formula seem more advanced or worth a higher price, and even sophisticated consumers fall for it because there is not enough public knowledge about what these formula components actually do.

What do GLP-1 medications like Ozempic do to your skin?

Rapid weight loss from GLP-1 medications can outpace the skin's ability to retract, leading to crepiness, laxity, and undulations where fat volume was lost beneath otherwise healthy skin. Dr. Shah notes dermatologists saw similar effects with gastric bypass, but it was rare enough that it never needed a name. That is no longer the case: "Now that it's 12 percent of the population, we have to really contend with this."

What skincare should you

Cutting Through the Noise: Dr. Muneeb Shah Debunks Skincare's Biggest Trends

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In this episode of Skin Anarchy, Dr. Ekta Yadav sits down with Abbott Stark, co-founder of OGEE, to explore one of the beauty industry's biggest questions: can clean beauty truly deliver luxury performance? Drawing from decades of product development experience, Abbott shares how OGEE was built to challenge the idea that consumers must choose between ingredient integrity and visible results.

The conversation examines how the definition of "clean beauty" has evolved—and why terms like "natural" and "clean" have become increasingly difficult to navigate. Rather than relying on marketing claims, Abbott explains why third-party organic certification, ingredient sourcing, and formulation transparency are central to building consumer trust in a rapidly changing industry.

A major focus of the episode is the science behind modern organic formulations. Abbott discusses how advancements in botanical actives, biofermentation, and plant stem cell technology are allowing certified organic products to deliver meaningful performance while maintaining rigorous ingredient standards. He also shares the technical challenges of developing skincare-infused makeup, where complexion products are designed not only to provide coverage but to support healthier-looking skin over time.

The conversation also highlights one of OGEE's signature ingredients—jojoba—and why thoughtful sourcing can be just as important as ingredient selection itself. Throughout the episode, Abbott makes the case that the future of beauty lies in creating products that combine efficacy, transparency, and sustainability without compromise.

Listen to the full episode to hear Abbott Stark discuss the evolution of clean beauty, the science behind certified organic skincare, and why high-performance beauty no longer has to come at the expense of ingredient integrity.

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The Evolution of Clean Beauty with Abbott Stark of OGEE

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In this episode of Skin Anarchy, Dr. Ekta Yadav sits down with Dr. Aamna Adel to explore a topic that has long been overshadowed in beauty conversations: scalp health. While consumers often focus on the visible aspects of hair, Dr. Adel explains why healthy hair begins at the scalp—and why understanding the biology beneath the surface may be one of the most important shifts happening in dermatology and hair care today.

Drawing from both her clinical expertise and personal experience with hair loss, Dr. Adel unpacks the complex factors that influence hair growth, from hormones and inflammation to nutritional deficiencies, stress, and scalp barrier function. Rather than viewing hair loss as a single-condition problem, she explains why successful treatment often requires a more holistic understanding of the biological systems involved.

The conversation also challenges common misconceptions about scalp care. Just like facial skin, the scalp has its own barrier, microbiome, and inflammatory pathways that require support and protection. Dr. Adel discusses why issues such as dryness, irritation, excess oil production, and even sun exposure can influence long-term hair health, and why addressing scalp health should be a foundational part of any hair care routine.

Inspired by her own hair loss journey, Dr. Adel also shares the story behind Rhute and her mission to bring evidence-based dermatology into everyday hair care. By combining multiple pathways involved in hair growth and scalp health, she hopes to bridge the gap between medical treatment and accessible daily support.

Listen to the full episode to hear Dr. Aamna Adel discuss scalp health, hair loss, dermatology, and why the future of healthy hair starts beneath the surface.

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Scalp Health, Hair Growth, and the Future of Hair Care with Dr. Aamna Adel of Rhute

Join Ekta as she discusses skincare trends, social issues, and myths around skincare and beauty culture. Join the discussion on Instagram @skincareanarchy! (Not legal or medical advice, all views expressed are non-legal and non-medical opinions) Support this podcast: https://anchor.fm/skincareanarchy/support

Skincare Anarchy